Stateways Fall 2022 | Page 38

“ Cold climate and short maceration are the most important factors in producing a quality sparkling wine .”
Bacchanal Wine in New Orleans hosts an annual Bubblyfest , which highlights grower Champagne houses and other sparkling producers around the world who use estate-grown grapes .
its ] funky aromas , low alcohol , low PSI and visually attractive label .” Bonde ’ s pet nats range in price from $ 22 to $ 42 .
He cites the category ’ s popularity having an impact on other less expected bubblies – such as red sparkling wines — and is excited about offerings from regions including Vermont , Maine , Quebec , Ontario , Massachusetts , the Finger Lakes , Long Island , Maryland , Michigan and England . “ Cold climate and short maceration [ are ] the most important factors in producing a quality sparkling wine .”
While Bonde opened in 2021 , wine shop Bacchanal Wine has been a fixture in New Orleans for two decades . It has expanded over the years to include a kitchen , dining room and bar and live music .
Director of operations and wine director Coryn Caspar has also seen pét-nats surge in popularity among its 350 offerings . “ They are often fizzy and fun and really easy to down ,” she points out . “ And some of them are actually complex enough to keep you interested .”
Each December ( except for a two-year hiatus during Covid ), Bacchanal hosts Bubblyfest , which highlights grower Champagne houses and other sparkling producers around the world who use estate-grown grapes . It ’ s a great opportunity for guests to try some new wines and shop for the holidays , Caspar says .
COCKTAIL CRED While the price and complexity of some bubbly doesn ’ t lend itself to mixing , other bottles can deftly elevate a cocktail , adding freshness and more easily delivering aromas with each sip while moderating the alcohol content of included spirits . Peacock Room features the Copper Canvas ($ 15 ), with Malfy blood orange gin , Grand Marnier , Pimm ’ s No . 1 , cucumber and sparkling wine , and the Squawk of Shame ($ 14 ), which mixes Fords Gin , basil , passion fruit , Contratto Aperitif and rose water , topped with bubbles .
At Workshop Kitchen + Bar , bar manager Jessi Lorraine offers The Queen of Hearts ($ 16 ). Watermelon is salted and made into a cordial , stirred with blanco tequila , blood orange vermouth and Chareau aloe liqueur , topped with sparkling wine and served in a large wine glass over ice garnished with thinly sliced lime wheels . “ Watermelon , blood orange and aloe dance along the bubbles of dry Champagne , making a drink truly fit for a queen ,” she says .
Wine drinkers are finally looking beyond sparkling wine as a celebratory toast and seeing it as the versatile , food-friendly option that it is . Somms and chefs are answering the call with surprising pairings that seamlessly work .
At a recent dinner , Bresca paired Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois , an oak-fermented style , with Wagyu beef . Baitzel believes full-bodied Champagnes with brioche notes and a creamy mouthfeel are the perfect match for sushi , sashimi and tempura ,

“ Cold climate and short maceration are the most important factors in producing a quality sparkling wine .”

but doesn ’ t underestimate the synergy of pimento cheese spread with an off-dry moscato or prosecco . And Mizuno-Moore “ melts into his chair ” just thinking about bubbles with chicken and waffles at brunch .
When in doubt , Samarco keeps it simple : Pair bubbly with someone you cherish , and a cured meat and cheese plate with fresh bread . “ To me , there is no such thing as an unexpected pairing for sparkling wine — and there is no wrong pairing with it , either ,” he says . “ Sparkling elevates moments shared .” •

– Bertil Jean-Chronberg , proprietor of Bonde Fine Wine Shop in Cambridge , MA .
Kelly Magyarics , DWS , is a wine , spirits and lifestyle writer and wine educator based in the Washington ,
D . C . area .
38 StateWays | www . stateways . com | Fall 2022