Stateways Fall 2022 | Page 37

a tableside teachable moment for diners who ’ s only experience with Italian bubbly has been prosecco .
But while its shared pedigree , including production methods , lends comparisons to its French cousin , Franciacorta ’ s terroir , tradition and varietals make it distinctly unique . “ The result in the glass is a riper fruit profile leaning towards citrus and stone fruit notes , coupled with more approachable acidity and drier dosage levels at most brut styles ,” explains May Matta-Aliah , U . S . Franciacorta Educational Ambassador .
Longer aging after secondary fermentation lends Franciacorta elegance and a creamy , luxurious texture . “ The wines have beautiful balance , are very vinous , can easily be enjoyed on their own but really shine with food .”
Baitzel is also excited about lightly sparkling wines from another Italian region . “ Producers like Contratto have been at the forefront of quality sparkling wines from Piedmont , but I am excited about the more natural , frizzante-style wines .”
Rex at the Royal features Marchese Luca Spinola “ Col Fondo ’ frizzante ($ 80 a bottle ), made exclusively with the cortese grape . “ It ’ s approachable enough for less adventure drinkers , but has enough nuance and funky notes to excite the natural wine drinkers as well ,” Baitzel says .
GROWER CHAMPAGNES POPPING UP Despite the plethora of sparkling alternatives , Champagne is like the little black dress that will never go out of style , perpetually garnering legions of fans . But what Champagne devotees are drinking — and when they are drinking it — may be changing a bit .
At Bresca , a 60-seat Michelin star-rated restaurant in Washington , D . C . that ’ s focused on the Paris bistronomy movement , the curated selection of Champagne includes both larger houses and grower producers . Bottles range from $ 80 to $ 1,200 , with the sweet spot for most falling between $ 140 and $ 240 .
“ We are seeing more guests comfortable enjoying Champagne not just as an aperitif or for special occasions , but as a pairing throughout their meal ,” notes beverage director Will Patton . Bresca has also seen an uptick in interest in grower Champagnes , those made by the vineyards that grow the grapes vs . the large Champagne houses .
For instance , Georges Laval Cumineres 1er Cru Brut Nature ($ 220 a bottle ) is a top seller , as is J . Lassaigne ‘ La Colline Inspirée ’ Extra Brut Blanc de Blanc , which is on the list for $ 240 a bottle . And Bresca is the only restaurant in Washington , D . C ., that carries Valentin Leflaive CV1540 Blanc de Blancs by the glass , for $ 40 .
A recent Rosé Cuvée event at the restaurant introduced guests to pink sparklers , while another dinner served five sparkling wines from around the world ( including Champagne ), paired with five of chef Ryan Ratino ’ s summer dishes . “ Spring and summer are premier sparkling wine seasons , but there really isn ’ t a downtime for Champagne sales ,” Patton says .
Chicago steakhouse Maple + Ash carries bubbly wines from all over the world , ranging in price from $ 53 to $ 2,100 a bottle .
BUBBLY FROM BRITAIN One under-the-radar region that ’ s slowly gaining traction for its sparkling wine is England , represented by producers including Nyetimber and Balfour . Champagne house Pommery sees the potential for British fizz , as it ’ s often dubbed , crafting a Louis Pommery England Brut .
“ The region surrounding the Cliffs of Dover is nestled on insanely pure limestone , making for sparkling wines of extreme minerality ,” explains Jordan Deis , bar supervisor at the 105-seat Peacock Room , a New Orleans craft cocktail bar with an extensive selection of rare spirits and enticing selection of wines . “ These wines can be a little tricky to find , but when they are made with care , they can rival some of the most respectable Champagne houses .”
Amy Mundwiler , wine director of Maple + Ash modern steakhouse in Chicago , agrees . “ Too often , people only think of France and Italy , but I have been loving what Digby Fine English and Sugrue South Downs have been doing .”
Maple + Ash ’ s wine list runs deep with bubbles from all over the world ranging from $ 53 to $ 2,100 a bottle ; they offer Digby Fine English Leander Pink Brut Rosé and Reserve Brut for $ 145 and $ 180 a bottle , respectively .
Other often-overlooked regions for sparkling wine can dazzle guests looking for something a little bit different . Aba offers the 2018 Bodegas Los Bermejos Brut Nature Lanzarote from the Canary Islands for $ 90 a bottle . “ It ’ s made entirely from the malvasia grape and it ’ s just an insanely good food wine with great acidity , texture and minerality ,” Mizuno-Moore says .
AU NATUREL As a sommelier who used to manage a large sparkling wine list at his former Boston restaurant The Beehive , Bertil Jean-Chronberg has seen the market for bubbly dramatically shift in the past few years , from lower-end prosecco and cava to wines made in the ancestrale and charmat method as well as crémant and mousseux . He attributes much of that to the natural wine movement that ’ s taken hold in his market and around the country .
Jean-Chronberg ’ s Bonde Fine Wine Shop in Cambridge , MA , specializes in eco-responsible wineries . Pét-nats — pétillant naturel or naturally sparkling — represent 60 % of the yearly sparkling wine sales . The shop carries 100 labels total .
“ A domestic pét-nat at the price of Champagne today is completely acceptable by the consumer ,” says Jean-Chronberg , “[ with
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