Stelvio Pass is one of those bucket-list roads you dream about riding long before you imagine ever actually going there. It is so iconic that motorcycles have been named after it and photographs of its seemingly endless switchbacks have become shorthand for great motorcycle roads. But no photograph quite prepares you for the experience of riding it.
At 9,045 feet, Stelvio is the highest paved mountain pass in Italy. The SS38 climbs from the town of Prato Allo Stelvio in South Tyrol, while another approach comes from Bormio in Lombardy. Both sides are spectacular, but the South Tyrol approach is the one that delivers the famous wall of switchbacks that makes Stelvio instantly recognizable.
Once the road begins climbing in earnest, the scenery changes quickly. Forest surrounds the lower sections, but the higher you climb, the more the mountain opens up. Then comes the first switchback.
The famous Stelvio switchbacks seem to stack one on top of another as the road ascends the mountainside. There are 48 hairpins on the South Tyrol side, and riding them is a physical experience. Corner after corner requires concentration, precise lines, and a smooth throttle. Before long, I could feel tension building in my shoulders, and I had to remind myself to relax my grip and let the motorcycle work.
One particularly steep hairpin has become something of a celebrity in its own right. Its combination of grade and tight radius has made it a notorious spot for motorcycle tip-overs, and videos of riders losing their balance there have become popular online. Seeing the clips is funny from the comfort of your couch. Sitting on a motorcycle at the bottom of that corner is another matter entirely.
The pass is more than a point on a map. At the top, you’ll find restaurants, food stands, and souvenir shops selling patches, stickers, T-shirts, and other Stelvio memorabilia. On a busy day, the summit becomes a gathering place for motorcyclists, bicyclists, and tourists from around the world.
From here, the road splits. To the right, you have Umbrail Pass, which takes you immediately into Switzerland following ridgelines. This route is generally less traveled and spits you out in Val Müstair. If you stay to the left, however, you can continue to follow SS38, “Passo dello Stelvio,” all the way to Bormio.
Descending toward Bormio, the road dives through a series of tunnels carved into the mountainside, emerging into views of rugged Alpine peaks and cascading waterfalls. After concentrating so intensely on the switchbacks during the climb, the descent felt like a chance to take in the landscape. The tunnels add another dimension to the ride, between alternating darkness and bright Alpine sunlight as the road works its way down the mountain. Take caution in these tunnels, as many have turns within them that can be hard to see while your eyes are adjusting.
Just remember that Stelvio is a high-mountain road, and conditions can change quickly. The pass is closed during the winter and may not open until late spring or early summer depending on snowfall. Even when the valleys are warm, temperatures at the summit can be dramatically cooler. Check road conditions and weather before heading up, and don’t assume that a clear morning in the valley means clear conditions at 9,000 feet.
When we returned to the summit after exploring the nearby roads, the quiet mountain we’d experienced earlier was already coming alive. The smell of roasting sausages filled the air, motorcycles crowded the parking areas, and the souvenir shops were open for business.
We found a restaurant, ordered cappuccinos and spaghetti Bolognese, and watched the traffic crawl across the mountain. When in Italy, right?
Stelvio is famous because of how it looks, but riding it reveals why it has earned its reputation. The road is demanding, dramatic, and occasionally intimidating. It takes you from green valleys into an Alpine world, then sends you back down the other side through tunnels, waterfalls, and some of the most spectacular scenery in the Alps.
Location: Lombardy and South Tyrol, Italy
Road: SS38, Passo dello Stelvio
Distance: 28 miles from Bormio to Prato Allo Stelvio
Summit: 9,045 ft
Best Direction to Ride: The Prato Allo Stelvio approach provides the iconic uphill 48-hairpin experience
Ride Time: Half day
Skill Level: Advanced mountain riding
Best Bike Type: Sport-touring, standard, ADV, touring