Story & photos by Tim Kessel
Phoenix is one of this nation’s great cities. As expansive and vibrant as the place may be, it can be a bit limiting to a motorcyclist. The dearth of curves, the overall flatness of the desert environs, and the often‑oppressive heat can leave a motorcycle languishing in the garage.
However, there is a day‑ride emanating from the Valley of the Sun that can have a rider rising from the fire and flying to new heights like the mythological creature that is this city’s namesake. This ride is a 6‑hour loop that boasts three of the best stretches of winding mountain tarmac and some of the most spectacular scenery in the Southwest.
Like most rides with a city center as the starting point, my ride began as an exercise in clutch, throttle, and brake. Downtown Phoenix is the home of a couple of pro sports teams, the state capital, big corporations, and some of the more congested traffic in the urban area. However, after some stop‑and‑go navigation, I made it to the I‑10 and the Loop 303 before starting my northeastern jaunt on U.S. 60. The 60 is a straight, scenic warm‑up for a ride that would ultimately have me testing the side‑tread of the Metzlers on my BMW GS.
After a northern exit at the old western town of Wickenburg, I made my way through the tiny town of Congress and started my ride on State Route 89, where the real fun began. As I climbed out of the high‑desert town, I knew what was coming and the anticipation built. Yarnell Hill is one of the most winding and scenic roads in the region and one of the most historically significant. Most of the mountain climb is made on a divided road, so the threat of oncoming traffic is mitigated. Additionally, the uphill portion is now two lanes, so there is little risk of getting stuck behind traffic.
After a few miles of wonderfully coiled road, I decided to make a crossover for a short visit to the Granite Mountain Hotshots Memorial State Park. The powerful memorial pays tribute to the heroes who lost their lives in 2013 fighting a wildfire that threatened the town of Yarnell. A roadside display serves as access to a longer tribute walk. The hike is not really suitable for motorcycle gear and boots, though.
There is no direct access back onto the uphill stretch of the 89, but this is a blessing in disguise. I made my way down the road, which is a single lane on the downhill stretch. It offers a unique experience of hairpins and forever views. After a few miles back down the hill, I took the first available crossover and headed back up Yarnell Hill. I consider this backtrack bonus twisties.
After cresting the mountain, I rode through the quaint town of Yarnell before continuing the northern trek. At this point, the air had cooled over 30 degrees from the morning air in Phoenix, so I closed a few vents on my jacket. After a beautiful mountain roll, I came to Kirkland Junction where my GPS wanted me to exit the 89 toward Skull Valley. That is a beautiful ride in its own right, but I had my sights set on another cluster of amazing curves.
After the small town of Wilhoit, the ride becomes as tight and entertaining as you will find. I downshifted at the same time that my heartrate took a decided uptick. The well‑maintained asphalt coils instantly into a perfectly‑banked series of curves reminiscent of an extra‑long version of the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca. It is not often that I grind a peg on the tall GS, but I did so twice on this wonderful stretch.
The road ultimately leads to the historic mountain city of Prescott. There are ways to navigate around the heart of the city, but I never miss an opportunity to ride down the infamous Whiskey Row and beside the city’s beautiful central square. I continued northeast through Prescott Valley toward Mingus Mountain.
Ascending Mingus Mountain on State Route 89A, I experienced an incredible array of turns. There are big sweepers, tight banks, and hairpins that tested my skills and sidewalls as I crested the mountain and then started the descent. Tall pines lined the road and often broke to reveal some of the best views in the world, and that is not hyperbole. The next landmark is the historic mining town of Jerome. This is the approximate halfway point of the ride. I stopped for lunch at the Haunted Hamburger Restaurant, which offers great food and stunning views all the way to the red rocks of Sedona.
My post‑lunch ride took me the rest of the way down Mingus Mountain to the bustling Verde Valley, where I passed through Clarkdale, Cottonwood, and then Camp Verde. State Route 260 led me over the Verde River and back through the mountains southward. From Camp Verde, the road begins an ascent that features long, fast, sweeping corners toward Arizona’s Mogollan Rim.
I rode through the beautiful mountain towns of Strawberry, Pine, and Payson. In Payson, I fueled up for the last leg of this ride. State Route 87 is the perfect wind down on this mega‑loop. It is an interesting divided road on which the northbound and southbound lanes cross on overpasses at several points. It’s an interesting and entertaining example of engineering that took me from the tall pines down to the tall saguaros.
As the traffic slowed me back down in the heat of the Phoenix area, I was tired and fully satisfied. This is a ride that demands planning, as riding gear changes will be required. There is 7,000 feet of elevation change and the possibility of more than 50 degrees of temperature variation. You can ride under clear skies in Phoenix and then experience thundershowers in the mountains, so be prepared.