S eptember. Like a whisper from a Teutonic lover across your neck, it promises“ Summer will be back.” Often fickle in temperature and with precipitous mood swings, it can be so enjoyable in the Pacific Northwest. Needing a break from the smoke-filled skies of eastern Washington, I loaded a bike and the dogs and pointed my RV to the, well, smoke-filled canyons and river gorges of Idaho. We set up at Long Camp RV in Kamiah, Idaho, right on the east bank of the Clearwater River, which is rightfully described as Idaho’ s crown jewel waterway.
Flowing westward from the Bitterroot Mountains, it follows much of the tortured path of U. S. Route 12 as it slashes jaggedly across the throat of Idaho’ s panhandle. The highway is highlighted by beautifully rugged terrain and exciting roads. And by“ exciting,” I mean they can be rough, with wheel-swallowing potholes and crevices. Winters take their toll on the tarmac, as does summer’ s harsh burns, and with this type of terrain and mostly narrow two-lane roads, repairs are often delayed.
I planned on riding two of my favorite there-and-back roads to the pavement’ s ending at Elk City and Elk River, both visited on memorable rides over the last 30 years but never
in succession. Also, the ride to Grangeville and back with a side spur to the heralded White Bird Grade on former U. S. 95 were included in the two 200-mile or so jaunts. There are more nice day rides than can be explored from this location: Lolo Pass, St. Maries, Pierce, Greer, and others. A region so full of natural beauty, wildlife, and manmade roads that will make any camera lens an optimistic liar.
Subdued under a smoky haze in late September, the views on the Grangeville plateau pale in comparison to the fun journey up SR-13 it takes to get here.
RIDERMAGAZINE. COM / NOVEMBER 2026 / 23