Suppose you want to take a cross‑country ride, more off‑road than on, alone. A shaft‑driven machine (like a BMW GS) might not be the best choice. A gearbox on the rear wheel is heavy and, even if not likely, should it break, you could be marooned in the middle of nowhere.
The nifty belt drive system that Harley‑Davidson has used for decades does not tolerate shrapnel between belt and pulley. A rather likely off‑asphalt fault, no matter how good the belt works on super slabs.
That leaves a chain, used since dirt was mud on the vast majority of motorcycles ever made, especially those with off‑road pretensions. Harley’s popular Pan America is high up on a short list of choices for this sort of ride, not least because it features chain drive.
Chain tech has kept up with or exceeded the higher power and weight of today’s machines. Details aside, the single biggest advance has been sealed drive chain designs. First in the form of O‑rings, then X‑rings, and even Z‑rings, doubling then tripling chain life. Yet no chain offers guaranteed mileage, and it remains a consumable part.
Chains have twice as many moving parts as most engines. Lubrication of an engine is orderly and efficient, with known rules for keeping it that way. With exposed chains, it’s different and disorderly.
Keeping drive chains properly inspected, adjusted, clean, and lubricated keeps them from being consumed too quickly. There are many ways to accomplish this, and that might be the worst part of the deal.
The rule of thumb for chain maintenance intervals is 300‑500 miles – which needs the finger. What matters is environmental conditions and usage. Chain damage can occur simply by keeping your bike outdoors, especially by the ocean, all winter, or baking in sunshine. Pressure washing or riding in rain, at the surf line, in dirt or sand dunes, or with excess zeal means chain care is needed ASAP, regardless of mileage.
Cruising at steady throttle on flat ground is a lot easier on chains than racing through the gears. The most amazing and detrimental phenomenon is chain whip, occurring in bottom run or top every single time the throttle is opened or closed. If a chain breaks, it’s typically during this jerky, abrupt loading and unloading. Rapid wear and stretch are given under the same rules of physics.
Point a GoPro at your chain instead of the scenery, take a ride, then look at the footage. Chains work hard and mysteriously!
When inspecting your chain, things to look out for include dirt and debris, rust, cracks, kinks, wear marks, missing or damaged seals, rotated pins, and chain float (when pulling the chain away from the sprocket). Determining if you have such issues takes more than a cursory glance, but there’s clearly a payoff for your time and effort. No surprises. (The chain and sprockets often wear together, and both are typically replaced at the same time.)
Adjustment can be tricky since it often involves dealing with a specified range of slack, or deflection. The Pan America owner’s manual recommends measuring deflection at the center point between the front and rear sprockets and taking several measurements during wheel rotation. Push up and then pull down on the chain to measure deflection, which should be 1.97‑2.36 inches (50‑60mm) when the bike is on the centerstand or 1.81‑2.20 inches (46‑56mm) when it’s on the sidestand.
Proper alignment can be determined by sighting along the run from rear to front sprocket, like you’d check the straightness of a pool cue. Ensure the chain doesn’t walk to one side or the other as you rotate the rear wheel in the direction of travel, then backwards. It should stay centered on the sprockets. At home, it can all be done with specialty tools.
Now we come to the controversial part: Defining what “clean” is and choosing one of the many options for getting there. Major manufacturers warn against kerosene, diesel, and WD‑40. Avoid anything that’s flammable or could get past the chain seals and “clean” the lube out of the pins. Moisture can contribute to rust and corrosion, so a waterless approach is often the better option.
Lubrication is another tricky task, largely because of the multitude of products, each able to do the job and wanting us to think they are indeed the best. Chain makers never specify any lube other than heavy gear oil, useful for both cleaning and lubrication. To minimize the downside – fling – know that when applied frequently, just a dab will do. All this “R and R” is against Rust and for Rollers.
Aside from the products and tools involved, the techniques are almost infinite and tend to be both time‑consuming and messy, or worse, hit or miss.
Many experienced riders opt for a far easier and effective way to deal with the nuances and nuisances of chain drive care. Namely, on‑board oilers. There are plenty of choices, like Scottoiler (shown), Nemo, Loobman, Tutoro, plus DIY types. They make sense, because whether they function electronically, by gravity, vacuum, or pressure, automatically or rider‑operated, you need no druid rituals, physical contortions, gadgets, or stands. No mess at home and, properly fed, a minimum on the road (though oilers can be tricky to use if you ride off‑road regularly). An IV for your chain, oilers ensure a longer, better life as you ride.