43 WINTER 2025 VOL . 06 / ISSUE 01 SNOWGOER . COM
44 gradually gained elevation became apparent when descending a massive hill leading down to a branch of the Margaree River . Suddenly the hills seemed larger as switchbacks brought us into the valley and across a train bridge to Salmon Camp – a quirky restaurant that resembled a hobbit ’ s house with contrasting colors , a skinny stone chimney and tiny second floor windows .
The parking lot was empty – except for a very buried Ford Focus – and I wondered if we were liberating these snowed-in restaurateurs . The inside environs felt like Northern Europe with exposed timbers , white walls and a small bartop manned by friendly owners with heavy Swiss accents .
We enjoyed a leisurely lunch as Captain Kirk shared his culinary adventures from his work life in Southeast Asia , which made our good food seem truly amazing .
After meals and tabs were settled , we doubled back up the steep switchbacks across the river and turned eastward onto a new route back into the highlands and toward Baddeck . We passed a few warming shacks , but no inhabited homes . It was 193 kilometers — 119 miles — by the time we arrived to the warm farmhouse filling with the smells of Italian wedding soup , lasagna and garlic bread .
From start to finish , everyone I encountered was friendly , informative and , best of all , enthusiastic snowmobilers with great senses of humor . Everybody told me to come back in the summer and drive the scenic Cabot Trail that runs 185 miles around the perimeter of Cape Breton Island .
It ’ s more than a four-hour drive from Maine ’ s eastern border into the western end of Nova Scotia , which shouldn ’ t be enough to keep away the adventurous . While the trail network is extensive , Cape Breton is not necessarily a popular snowmobile destination . Yet . From my experience , nobody along the East Coast should pass up the chance to ride this beautiful , multi-cultural island that feels like a country all its own .