| DEEP DIVE |

BY MELISSA DOWLING

You may have been hearing more about natural wine in recent years , but what exactly is it ? And what ’ s the difference between natural wine and organic wine ? How does biodynamic wine fit it ?

There ’ s no uniform definition of natural wines , but in general natural wine refers to a “ low-intervention ” or “ minimal interference ” philosophy of winemaking in the vineyard and winemaking process , with no added chemicals and additives .

Natural wine is a consumer-led trend that emerged a few decades ago but has yet to form its own defined category , says Nenad Trifunovic , the in-house wine expert at Wine & More , a retailer of Croatian and Balkan wines .

Organic wine is made with grapes grown without synthetic pesticides , fertilizers or other chemicals . Organic grapes must be grown and processed according to standards set by certifying organizations that also prohibit the use of certain additives such as artificial preservatives , colors and flavors .

Biodynamic wine takes organic wine a bit further , with farming methods that use a holistic and ecological approach to agriculture . Techniques include planting according to lunar and celestial rhythms , adding composts and medicinal and botanical plant matter to enrich the soil , and avoiding chemicals and other interventions as much as possible .

Organic and biodynamic farming have become more important to both sommeliers and consumers , according to sommelier and wine writer Nadine Brown . Cabernet franc from France ’ s Loire Valley is a frequent leader in these discussions , she says , thanks to the high amount of organic and biodynamic winemakers in the region — as well as those who have been making natural wine far before the style was fashionable .

Indeed , natural wine is considered to have started in rural France back in the 1990s , says Trifunovic . But natural wine has recently gained more attention and popularity among consumers , especially with the rise of environmentalism and wellness culture , he notes .

RESTAURANTS GO AU NATUREL The natural wine scene has flourished in major metro areas , but restaurants in other markets have taken notice and upped their offerings . For instance , Bethany Heinze , beverage director / co-owner at Vern ’ s in Charleston , SC , has curated a beverage program that complements the seasonally driven menu while partnering with sustainable producers .

Heinze discovered her love of natural wine while working in the beverage world . She immersed herself in learning the environmental benefits of prioritizing organic practices in vineyards , which empowers nature to do all the work without adding chemicals to interrupt the process . Vern ’ s wine list offers 75 rotating selections from vineyards around the world that are committed to organic farming .

Table , a New American restaurant in Asheville , NC , has a natural wine list curated by Chef Jacob Sessoms and wine director Brett Watson . They seek out exciting and compelling wines from all over the world that are produced with heart and focus on the land . The wine program at Table is considered “ Old World Natural ,” with a focus on small producers and family farms making wines with native yeast and spontaneous fermentation .

Cala Scottsdale , a Mediterranean restaurant in the Arizona city , launched a new summer wine menu in partnership with Los Angeles-based Felipe P ., a natural wine connoisseur . Cala was the first to bring three natural , biodynamic wines from different regions of California to the Scottsdale dining scene .

Felipe P . has been serving natural wine at his supper club , Pretty Boy Plates , since 2019 . He started an educational wine series called Summer Tastings in 2022 and has been teaching guests about low-intervention winemaking and the difference between natural wine and biodynamic wine .

For consumers seeking a selection of natural wines , a new ecommerce and editorial platform called The Waves champions diversity , transparency , and responsible production in wine . The Waves selects organically farmed , small-production bottles that are free of the 70-plus chemical additives currently allowed without disclosure in the U . S . It delivers the wines via subscription .

“ While there is still discussion about what exactly makes a wine natural , and whether it is more of a marketing gimmick , it looks like this category will continue to draw even more attention over the next couple of years ,” says Wine & More ’ s Trifunovic .

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