| VIN-SIGHTS |
The Trouble with Bubbles
BY MARNIE OLD
All wines are bubbly at some point because carbon dioxide is a byproduct of fermenting sugar into alcohol . But this natural carbonation is usually allowed to dissipate , leaving a still wine behind .
Why ? It is much easier to allow carbon dioxide to escape than to preserve it . Finding a means to preserve carbonation is a tremendous challenge , since wine must be kept under pressure continuously at every step of production , transport and storage .
While wines that “ sparkled ” were first commercialized in the 16th century , glass bottles strong enough to withstand the internal pressure of a second fermentation were not manufactured at scale until the Industrial Revolution .
“ Sparkling wine ” as we know it did not catch on until the early 19th century , pioneered in the Champagne region of France . Today , virtually all fine sparkling wine is made following the procedures developed in Champagne , now called the
“ Traditional Method ,” where a second fermentation in bottle traps the wine ’ s carbonation .
More modern methods that rely on pressurized tanks are used for making less-prestigious sparklers , such as prosecco and moscato . This makes them far less expensive to produce vs . the Champagne method .
Marnie Old is one of the country ’ s leading wine educators . Formerly the director of wine studies for Manhattan ’ s French Culinary Institute , she is best known for her visually engaging books published by DK , such as Wine : A Tasting Course . Marnie currently serves as director of vinlightenment for Boisset Collection .
TRADITIONAL METHOD aka Champagne Method
CHARMAT METHOD aka Prosecco Method
ANCESTRAL METHOD aka Moscato Method
TECHNIQUE |
Two fermentations : 1st makes the base wine , 2nd takes place in sealed bottles to create bubbles |
Two fermentations : 1st makes the base wine , 2nd to create bubbles takes place in pressurized tanks |
One fermentation : Single fermentation creates the bubbles , takes place in pressurized tanks |
KEY FLAVOR FACTOR |
Flavor and texture are both enriched by long-term aging on the lees ( yeast sediments ) |
Fresh fruity flavors are preserved by being bottled young with minimal aging |
To preserve sweetness , fermentation is stopped halfway to completion . |
CARBONATION |
Fine , small bubbles : long-lasting creamy mousse |
Medium bubbles : persistent foamy mousse |
Larger , coarser bubbles ; short-lived frothy mousse |
SWEETNESS |
Most often very dry to medium dry |
Most often medium dry to lightly sweet |
Always fully sweet with high residual sugar |
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