Bourbon whisky has been booming in recent years, resulting in a plethora of new brands, releases and expressions. Which are worth sampling? As always, that’s a matter of taste, but these professional reviews can help guide you.
The following notes and ratings come from the most recent judging of the New York International Spirits Competition. Judges for the NYISC are trade professionals — retailers, bartenders, buyers, etc. — who blind taste products based on price tiers. These ratings and reviews recognize spirits that represent both quality and value.
double gold
Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Traditional Barrel Series Kentucky Straight Wheated Bourbon Whiskey (Heaven Hill Distillery). Aged minimum six years, bottled at 121 proof, with a deep mahogany color representing its time in the barrel. As a wheated bourbon, it has a warm, baked-bread, buttery nose alongside baked apples. The sweetness lies on the tongue, with hints of pepper as a top layer. Long, warm finish with soft layers of dark sugar and pepper.
Angel’s Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Finished in Port Wine Barrels (Bacardi). The greatly missed master distiller Lincoln Henderson’s innovation flourishes here, with the finishing of their bourbon for several months in ruby port casks to create a reddish amber color. Oak and sweet ripe fruit come up from the glass. Vanilla sweetness and dried fruit coats the tongue with a long clean finish and a soft layer coating of red wine on top of the wave down your throat.
Elijah Craig B524 (Heaven Hill Distillery). Uncut at 130.6 proof, and aged 11 years and two months, giving it a deep amber color with a complex nose of brown sugar, caramel, baking spices and more. You will know it’s in your mouth, layering it with dark sugar, dried fruit, spices with hints of oakiness mixed in. A long, warm finish with its high proof, combined with oakiness and spice.
Garrison Brothers Cowboy (Garrison Brothers). Unchilled filtered, aged a minimum of six years, and bottled at 140 proof with a dark mahogany color. Dark chocolate and oak is there on the nose. Thick layering in the mouth of brown sugar, dark chocolate and dried fruit. Long dry finish, with the continued presence of oak and hints of leather.
George Dickel Bourbon (George Dickel). This eight year, small-batch bourbon was bottled at 90 proof through a chilled charcoal mellowing process to create a warm golden color. The nose has vanilla, brown sugar and touch of spice. Lies softly on the tongue with fruity notes and vanilla present, with that Dickel “stony” note that separates it from other bourbons. A moderate finish with hints of spice and mineral feel.
Brother’s Bond Bourbon Cask Strength Straight Bourbon (Brother’s Bond). Minimum aged four years, bottled at 115 proof, with a deep, rich amber color with nice long legs when you swirl it in the glass. Vanilla and oak on the nose with a pepper presence from its rye mash. Cinnamon and a fine medley of spice and dried fruit when in the mouth. The finish is long and warm, with leather and oak and spice at the end.
Widow Jane Black Opal (Heaven Hill Distillery). An amazing blend of straight bourbons minimum aged 20 years and finished in mizunara oak cask and bottled at 99 proof. The color is a dark mahogany color with wafts of vanilla, dark nuts and fruits on the nose. Though aged 20-plus years, there are spice and dark sugars in the mouth, with an oak presence from its time in mizunara casks. A wonderful long finish with layers of dark chocolate and winter spices at the end.
Four Roses Bourbon (Four Roses Distillery). Aged minimum of five years, creating a light, golden amber liquid with a bouquet of fresh apple and pear when in the nose. An easy to drink bourbon at 80 proof, with a light medley of honey and vanilla when in the mouth. The finish has a longer one that you would expect at 80 proof, with light spice and a corn presence. Great to drink neat or mixed in cocktails.
Redemption Ancients 18 Yr (Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits). An 18-year bourbon sourced from MGP, giving it its deep mahogany color and a fine mix of worn leather, hints of tobacco and dark fruits when sniffed. The high rye mash bill provides the peppery kick along with dried citrus, without being too oaky when in the mouth. The finish is a long balance of spice and dark sugar.
1845 Distilling Co. Preemption Texas Straight Wheated Bourbon Whiskey (1845 Distilling Co.). Golden copper color with long legs when you swirl it in the glass, and a delicate mix of toasted fruit and sugars, along with honey, on the nose. A wheated bourbon brings smoothness when its lies in the mouth, with soft layers of cooked dark sugars and fruit. A long finish of spices and dark chocolate.
Jefferson’s Ocean Aged At Sea Voyage 31 Bourbon Whiskey (Pernod Ricard). Its time at sea adds to its dark amber color, and when brought to the nose, the ocean salt is present, along dried cooked apples and citrus fruits. A light ocean presence along with brown sugar and dark fruit when in the mouth. The finish is long, and at 90 proof, a slight burn with dark sweetness and toastiness until the end.
15 STARS Triple Cask II (15 Stars). An interesting blend of aged bourbons up to 16 years give its golden copper look from its time in three casks. When nosed, the 103 proof does not disappoint, with apple, pears and raisins and other fun fruits. Cooked apples and brown sugar are layers in the mouth, along with hints of pepper on the sides of the tongue. The three cask finishes give it a lovely, long layered finish with calvados, rum and Cognac all fighting for recognition.
King’s Family Distillery Wheated Bourbon (King’s Family Distillery). A wheated bourbon bottled at 100 proof at a minimum of five years. A golden amber color, with a soft, comforting light fruit and a brown sugar nose. A caramel layer lies softly on the tongue, along with baked apple. The finish is long for a wheated bourbon, supported by a caramel layering and ends clean and smooth.
Augusta Distillery Buckner’s 17 Yr (Augusta Distillery). Single barrel at 120 proof, unchilled filtered, with a rich amber hue with thick legs when in the glass. Dark plums, raisins and of course, oaky notes fill the nose. Nuts, dark fruit and oak lies in the mouth, with hints of winter spice. The finish is long but dry, with a cask strength presence on top of layers of oak.
Bib & Tucker Small Batch 6 YO Bourbon Whiskey (Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits). Minimum six years old and 92 proof to give it a golden copper color, with vanilla, oak and spice on the nose. It is smooth and silky in the mouth, with layers of baked apple and spice. The finish is a continuation of smoothness with notes of vanilla and baking spices.
Chicken Cock Whiskey Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Chicken Cock). Aged a minimum of four years and bottled at 90 proof, the liquid has a mahogany glow with brown sugar, oak and hints of rye on the nose. Smooth and creamy in the mouth, with dark fruit and toasted oak layers. The finish is clean and not syrupy, with hints of oak and vanilla to be sipped or on the rocks.
FEW Bottled-In-Bond Bourbon Whiskey (Heaven Hill Distillery). Four years in the barrel give it a deep copper hue and vanilla, cinnamon and oak fill the nose. A lovely blend of spice, vanilla, pepper lies fully in the mouth without being overwhelmed as a 100-proof bourbon. The finish has dark fruit with tingles of spice that is long but proportioned, and a great base for most whiskey cocktails.
Seelbach’s Private Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon 15-Year Batch 001 122 proof (Seelbach’s). Bottled at 122 proof with a rich amber color from its 15 years in the barrel. Dark dried fruits and wafts of leather when nosed. A terrific medley of toasted oats and dark chocolate with spices on the edge of the tongue. The finish is long and warm from its high proof and time in the barrel, with coatings of oak and leather.
Square 6 Wheated Bourbon (Heaven Hill Distillery). A wheated bourbon bottled at 105 proof with a dark amber color. When nosed, brown sugar, cornmeal, vanilla and oak come up. It lies well and full in the mouth, with additional sweet and the spice of cinnamon supported by the tinges of oak. The finish is medium and what you would expect for wheated bourbon, with the oak still present as a base for the spices on top.
Larrikin Bourbon Bottled In Bond (Larrikin Bourbon Co.). An eight-year Bottled-In-Bond bourbon with a high rye mash blend and golden amber color. When brought to the nose, spice and licorice and other fun smells of sugar candy are present. Lies well in the mouth with spice, baked apples and an oak presence from its years in the cask. The finish is long and dry of rye, spice and baked fruit. •