| DEEP DIVE |

BY JAMIE STAFFORD

Gin is a long and storied spirit , versatile and deeply entrenched in cocktail culture . It comes from redistilling a neutral grain spirit ( a spirit brewed from a base of grain such as wheat or barley ) with juniper , among other flavors .

Gin in its classic form came about from English soldiers adapting a Dutch and Belgian liquor called genever ( or jenever ). Genever was initially created for medicinal use , using juniper berries in the distilling process .

After William of Orange banned the import of French brandy , the popularity of gin exploded . It later became the national drink of England .

While gin experienced extended popularity , it suffered a truly spectacular fall from grace in the 18th century , branded with the moniker “ mother ’ s ruin .” People made cheap gin , called bathtub gin , in their homes with little regulation or oversight .

Gin licenses eventually became commonplace , governing the distilling process and making the spirit safe for consumption and commercialization .

It ’ s common to to think of gin to “ vodka with juniper .” But while the initial distilling process is much the same , gin has rich flavor profiles and there are different types .

Gin types are categorized by the “ focus ” of the gin : the prominence of the botanical flavors , and which are predominant . These flavors come from herbs and plants steeped or boiled directly in the base alcohol or suspended above the alcohol during distilling .

The strength of the flavors is determined by the botanical bill — which botanicals are used and in what concentration . Gin is typically distinguished as classic or contemporary , with more specific subtypes such as London Dry ,

Plymouth gin , and Old Tom . These have been joined by newcomers to the category , such as barrel-aged ( cask ) gin . New American-style gins , meanwhile , can flavored with a wider array of botanicals , including fruit and floral as well as regional herbs and spices , in addition to juniper .

LONDON DRY Unlike the name suggests , London Dry gin can be made anywhere as long as it meets certain criteria during the distilling process . London Dry is defined as a gin that is redistilled to an alcohol by volume ( ABV ) of at least 70 %, with an original distillation of over 96 %.

All botanical flavors must be introduced during this process , and no sweeteners can be added afterwards , staying true to the gin ’ s “ dry ” moniker . It can only be watered down to a minimum strength of 37.5 % alcohol as well .

This means that all London Dry gins will have a juniper-focused palatte , and most are strong enough to hold this flavor even when used in cocktails with vermouth or other spirits .

PLYMOUTH Plymouth gin by law can only be produced in Plymouth , England , and comes from a single distillery therein . It is considered a cousin to London Dry , made under the same processes , but with a distinct flavor palate that comes from botanicals such as coriander seeds , angelical root and orris root .

So while some may categorize it as merely another dry gin , Plymouth gin is recognized as a separate category , especially by enthusiasts .

OLD TOM There are no hard and fast rules to making Old Tom gin , unlike London

Dry or Plymouth gin . It is sweeter than London Dry , but not as malty as genever — in the family of gin , it stands as an oft overlooked middle child . Some versions are aged ; some are not . Some are sweetened with added sugars . Some use botanicals to achieve the same effect .

Old Tom remains a notable category of gin for its versatility in cocktail use . The balance between the malt of genever and the sharp juniper of London Dry makes it a friendly alternative to other , more aggressive gins .

BARREL-AGED Barrel-aged or cask gin is a newer subcategory , one that sits somewhat awkwardly between two categories : gin and whiskey . While the original spirit is undoubtably gin , it ’ s then aged in casks ( often bourbon or sherry ), giving it a wide breadth of flavor .

Aging in casks lends all the same flavors that it would to whiskey , so vanilla and caramel are often prominent additions to the usual juniper .

Barrel-aged gin is often a “ sipping ” spirit , taken neat or on the rocks . But it can make an inventive addition to cocktails , replacing either whiskey or regular gin .

WWW . CHEERSONLINEATHOME . COM CHEERS @ HOME • FALL 2022 | 13