| VIN-SIGHTS |

BY MARNIE OLD

Foods with spicy heat can be stimulating and enjoyable , but are also famously hard to pair successfully with wines .

Some wines are better equipped than others to handle dishes that are packing heat . But these bottles are often overlooked because they represent an exception to the normal wineand-food pairing guidance of partnering “ like with like .”

Wines that we describe as “ spicy ,” such as bold Rhône blends or ripe floral whites , rarely taste their best when served alongside spicy foods . The key to avoiding such unflattering clashes is to grasp the sensory science behind the cause and effect .

We use the term “ spicy ” to describe aromatics in wine . But spicy heat in food is completely unrelated . It ’ s a tactile sensation perceived as a mild form of pain .

Spicy foods seem to “ burn ” on contact with thermo-sensitive nerves . Chili peppers and ginger literally feel “ hot .” We expect a cold drink to counteract spicy heat , but it doesn ’ t help much ; we ’ re stuck with the burn until it fades on its own . If that drink contains alcohol , however , it can amplify the fiery sensation rather than reducing it .

Why ? Alcohol acts as an irritant in this circumstance , inflaming the chemical burn for similar reasons as why spirits hurt when poured over a wound .

Low-alcohol beers can pass muster with spicy fare , but once we get above 5 % alcohol , the higher a drink ’ s alcoholic strength , the more the drinker will “ feel the burn .” Since alcohol ’ s volatility is also highest at the warmest temperature , the spicy heat effect is even more intense in high-alcohol drinks that are not served chilled — like red wine .

As a result , spicy food is rarely flattering to full-bodied red wines , leaving them tasting boozier while flattening their fruit , leaving the food seeming scorchingly hot . Lower-alcohol drinks served cold work much better , particularly those wines that also feature a touch of residual sweetness to soothe the palate , such as riesling or vinho verde .

Marnie Old is one of the country ’ s leading wine educators . Formerly the director of wine studies for Manhattan ’ s French Culinary Institute , she is best known for her visually engaging books published by DK – such as Wine : A Tasting Course . Marnie currently serves as director of vinlightenment for Boisset Collection .

DO YOUR OWN TASTE TEST TO MASTER THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ALCOHOL AND SPICY HEAT For a vivid illustration of the effects of alcohol on the palate when partnered with spicy food , screw up your courage and line up a bottle of your favorite hot sauce alongside samples of four drink options : a pale lager ( like a pilsner or light beer ), a mild low-alcohol white ( such as riesling or vinho verde ), a bold high-alcohol red ( like cabernet sauvignon or malbec ) and a whiskey served neat ( like rye or bourbon ). Taste each drink alone first , then again after a dab of hot sauce . Compare how the drink tastes before and after . Allow plenty of time between each round for your palate to recover , and see for yourself which option makes the most pleasant food partner when spicy heat plays a major role in the recipe .

CAUTION : ALCOHOL WILL NOT TAME THOSE FLAMES

Like pouring gas on a barbeque , alcohol will amplify the perceived “ burn ” of spicy heat .

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