Boston , beverage director and advanced sommelier Hugo Bensimon is on a quest to find out by aging non-vintage styles for a few years . “ We ’ ve aged some wines that are ‘ base bottlings ’ of producers , some of which aren ’ t that expensive , and seen them completely change paths ,” he admits . “ You can turn a $ 30 bottle into something that ’ s amazing , with just a little patience .”
Grill 23 & Bar offers over 200 sparkling wines priced from $ 44 to $ 9,000 per bottle , in all styles and categories — even sparkling riesling from Germany that dates back to 1984 . “ I ’ m encouraged by how many more people are drinking Champagne today than in years past ,” Bensimon says . “ It seems to have fi- nally crossed the threshold of not only being opened on special occasions .” Of his three sparklers by the glass , two are Champagne : Vilmart & Cie ‘ Grand Cellier ” Brut Champagne ($ 43 ) and J . Lassalle “ Préference ” Premier Cru Brut Champagne ($ 28 ). The other option is Zonin prosecco ($ 13 ).
ITALIAN-STYLE SPARKLERS
Speaking of prosecco , whether in a Mimosa or as an apéritif , its popularity isn ’ t waning . But this Italian Charmat-method sparkling wine hailing from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene region of the Veneto is no longer always a simple , easy-drinking quaffer .
At Stirrups , the 150−seat restaurant at the 248−room Equestrian Hotel in Ocala , FL , beverage director Roland Micu delights and surprises guests when he pours the Giusti Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut . Full-bodied and structured , it boasts vibrant acidity and more complexity than some of its Veneto cousins and over-delivers for $ 40 a bottle .
“ Many proseccos lack the acidity to balance the sugar content , but Giusti is a Champagne drinker ’ s prosecco ,” Micu says . A temperature-controlled primary fermentation results in a fresh and clean flavor , he says .
Stirrups has 41 sparkling wines by the bottle priced $ 40 to $ 4,200 ( for a vintage magnum ), and three by the glass : Col de Salici Prosecco ($ 11 ), Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut ($ 35 ) and Placido Moscato d ’ Asti ($ 9 ).
Panorama Wine Bar , a 147−seat concept in the Penn ’ s View Hotel in Philadelphia , offers more than 120 wines on tap and 30 tasting flights , including 11 sparkling wines . General manager and wine director William Eccleston says that the 2020 Prosecco Rosé “ Treviso ” Ruggeri ($ 15 a glass , $ 75 a bottle ) “ takes prosecco to a new level with the extra depth of flavor pinot noir can add to any sparkling wine .”
Eccleston offers other Italian sparklers at Panorama Wine Bar , including Antica Fratta Brut Franciacorta NV ($ 22 a glass , $ 110 a bottle ), Italy ’ s traditional method answer to Champagne . And he sells three different styles of Lambrusco , from dry to amabile ( slightly sweet ).
These include Lini 910 Lambrusco Bianco dell ’ Emilia ($ 16 a glass , $ 80 a bottle ), Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosso dell ’ Emilia ($ 16 a glass , $ 80 a bottle ) and Cantina Settecani Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($ 17 a glass , $ 85 a bottle .) “ This shines a light on this traditional yet often underexplored style of sparkling that pairs especially well with tomato sauce and other Italian menu items ,” Eccleston says .•
Just Add Bubbles
Sparkling wine is the perfect base for the low-ABV cocktails that speak to the current trend of mindful drinking — moderate alcohol consumption as part of a healthy lifestyle — that counters pandemicera overindulgence . Spritz variations including the Negroni Sbagliato , which subs in prosecco for gin , the orange soda-based Poppi Aperol Spritz , and the heady , elderflower Hugo Spritz have taken Tik Tok ( and subsequently , the drinks world ) by storm .
At Testaccio , a 75-seat Roman-inspired restaurant and wine bar in Chicago , beverage director Joe Crivolio curates a selection of spritz-friendly ingredients for an aperitivo hour menu . Guests can build their own perfect creation , or take some cues from Crivolio and staff .
He recommends mixing things up by turning to alternatives to Aperol and Campari , and swapping out prosecco for other sparklers . For instance , Lambrusco has a fuller body and either sweetness or dryness , depending on the style , while cava makes for a bright , sharp , “ biscuity ” spritz ; and pét-nats are produced in a wide range of styles .
Crivolio ’ s Rosato Sbagliato ($ 14 ), which combines Contratto bitter liqueur with Cocchi Americano Rosa , topped with La Divina Lambrusco Pet Nat and garnished with an orange wedge , has “ a tighter bubble carbonation and additional flavor depth from the Lambrusco .” He also says Lambrusco works well in a Sangria-esque spritz .
Royal Boucherie , a 150-seat brasserie in Philadelphia , recently relaunched its popular seasonal Spritzer Bar . Overseen by lead bartender Eden Beschen , the offering is a choose-your-own adventure that highlights the restaurant ’ s amaro selection and lets guests concoct a customizable effervescent elixir .
Step one is to select either a light base by way or a vermouth or aromatized wine such as Carpano Antica , Dolin Dry or Lillet Rouge ; a bitter base like Campari , Bonal , Faccia Brutto Aperitivo or Salers Gentian Apériti ; or a sweeter liqueur like cassis , framboise , pamplemousse or St . Germain . Step two tops that base with De Perrière sparkling white or rosé — or club soda for an ever lower-proof sip — along with ice and a relevant garnish . Spritzes are priced at $ 16 for the wine versions or $ 14 for seltzer .
It ’ s all about providing guests with the most unique and fulfilling experience possible , says Beschen . “ The Spritzer Bar brings a personalized twist to our selection of craft cocktails .” — KM
www . beveragedynamics . com September 2023 • Beverage Dynamics 25