Josephine , a 285-seat French brasserie in Old Town Alexandria , VA , focuses on French sparkling wines , specifically Champagne .
Brush Creek Ranch in Saratoga , WY , which boasts an underground cellar holding 35,000 bottles of wine includes a crémant de Bourgogne for guests .
tage of the 3−oz . pours as an opportunity to create their own mini-tastings of Champagne or other fizzy flights .
Historic New Orleans restaurant Commander ’ s Palace this past August launched Commander ’ s Palace Cuvée Brut , a crémant de Bourgogne . Produced in partnership with Terres Secrètes and made with grapes from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy , the pinot noir-based sparkling wine is available for purchase online for $ 42 . The private-label sparkler is also offered at the restaurant by the half-glass ($ 7.50 ), glass ($ 15 ) and bottle ($ 68 ).
At Brush Creek Ranch , three all-inclusive properties in Wyoming ’ s North Platte River Valley with five dining concepts , Victorine de Chastenay Crémant de Bourgogne is included for resort guests . Since it hails from a producer who focuses on sparkling , the wine is on par with expressions from neighboring Champagne , says wine director Sydney Werry . “ The quality is incredible , and I love that it ’ s a blend of all four legal grapes in Burgundy ,” she explains . “ Fresh and bright with notes of citrus zest , almond and a long finish , it ’ s the perfect apéritif or pairing with a salad or fish dish .”
The resort , set on a 30,000−acre working cattle ranch , boasts the underground Brush Creek Cellar , a 94−yard cellar holding 35,000 bottles . The depth and breadth of the list , Werry believes , encourages an increased enthusiasm for guests to venture into uncharted territory . This includes the sparkling wine category , whether it ’ s a bottle from a previously unavailable vintage or one from an up-and-coming region .
Werry has been exploring “ tasty and fresh ” bubbly from Mexico ’ s Baja California region , where the warm Mediterranean climate is moderated by the Pacific and a range of microsites . Quality producers to seek out from the area include Symmetria , Casa Vegil and Pouya .
“ I think we ’ re living in the golden age of sparkling wine , and I hope we can keep it that way ,” says Tucker Hurley , general manager of Le French Wine Shop in New York . He
believes that “ the winemakers who focus on sustainability and respect for the planet will ultimately come out on top .”
To that end , the shop began carrying Champagne Telmont “ Reserve de la Terre ” ( priced at $ 159 ), the first Champagne to receive the organic AB ( Agriculture Biologique ) certification . The attention to detail extends to the packaging , produced with recycled and biodegradable materials ; ecofriendly hemp rope replaces wire cages .
In a diverse market such as New York , Hurley says it ’ s important to offer a wide selection of sparkling wine . “ When you describe a ‘ brut nature ’ or ‘ pét-nat ’, it ’ s like you are introducing them to a new type of cuisine that they may have only previously read about .”
Le French Wine Shop focuses exclusively on bottles from all over France , and will soon be launching a monthly wine club . The diversity of tastes found in New York is also the reason the store stocks classic Champagne , including Canard Duchene Brut Rosé Champagne ($ 69 ), Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne ($ 99 ) and Henriot Brut Souverain Champagne ($ 69 ). “ For me , Henriot really embodies tradition and excellence in Champagne ,” Hurley says . “ They ’ ve been winemakers since 1808 , and their blend of pinot noir and chardonnay is largely made from premier cru and grand cru wine — it ’ s very elegant .”
AGE STATEMENTS
Champagne — and other traditional-method sparkling wines — labeled “ non-vintage ” or “ NV ” are ready to be consumed without any additional maturation required . In fact , some producers discourage storing these for extended lengths of time , lest they lose their freshness and vibrancy .
But what happens if you flout that rule ? At Grill 23 & Bar , a 400−seat chophouse in
24 Beverage Dynamics • September 2023 www . beveragedynamics . com