Story & photos by Ken Frick
So you’ve seen the Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion, Pikes Peak, plus the Atlantic and Pacific, maybe even Yankee Stadium, and you’re looking for something different. Here’s my baker’s dozen, most of them off the beaten path, that have remained at the top of my list. Some offer a kitsch type of experience, and others require a specific taste, possibly not your own or not suitable for your steed. Throwing caution to the wind, here goes:
There are Paul Bunyans scattered in at least 13 U.S. locations. Those in Bemidji, Minnesota, and Bangor, Maine, claim Paul by birthright; however, Akeley, Minnesota, also claims to be the woodsman’s place of birth, but it has a museum! Babe the Blue Ox joins Paul in Bemidji and Klamath, and both are very impressive.
For my money, if you’re east of the Mississippi, head for Bemidji; if you’re west, try Paul and Babe at the Trees of Mystery in Klamath. The California example is a close second to the one in Bemidji. Both face somewhat west, so afternoon pictures are better.
Lassen Volcano is the big draw here, a destination for many. I’ve hiked to Lassen’s rim, but within the same park boundary is Cinder Cone, a top 10 favorite discovery in all of my travels. Located 10 miles to the northeast of Lassen Peak, it’s something of an adventure to reach. The road, when I was there, was terrible, requiring caution and made for the off-road crowd, but I managed on my BMW RT. At its end is a campground with bear boxes to store food.
The mile-plus hike from the campground to Cinder Cone is a slightly uphill route. For optimal viewing and cooler temperatures in the summer, arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when shadows are longer. Carry water and something to eat. The view of the cone from its base is worth the hike, but for a real treat, climb to the top. There’s a natural trail to follow. Stay on it, and be warned that it’s an extremely strenuous hike, with your footing slipping with every step. Take your time climbing if you go to the top.
No matter your level of conditioning, you will suffer. But if you are healthy, the view from above is spectacular. For those of you who still carry a camera, take a long lens. The colors, looking down from above, are spectacular.
This one’s easy to overlook and is meant for those with an interest in history. I’m certain many who travel U.S. 101 have never heard of it, and if they have, they never considered it a destination. TripAdvisor describes it as a 125-foot-tall column sitting atop Coxcomb Hill overlooking Astoria. But the many historical events depicted on the column frieze will amaze you, spiraling up and around. At its base, the area appears as a pristine forest, then higher up, the discovery of the Columbia River, then the Lewis and Clark Expedition, through to the arrival of the railroad.
And the view goes far beyond Astoria. What you see beyond the city is the confluence of the Columbia River with the Pacific Ocean. To add to your visit, climb to the column’s top, where you’ll note the names of the people who made the most recent restoration possible. The name at the top will be recognizable to most. There is a small charge for parking. For pictures, hope for a sunny day, but any view is special.
A fair percentage of riders will make the Harley-Davidson Museum their Milwaukee destination, and it is top-notch, a place every avid Harley rider should see. But the Milwaukee Art Museum is also special, with its signature, roof-mounted moveable wings, the Burke Brise Soleil.
Weighing 90 tons, with 72 fins ranging in length from 26 to 105 feet, the Soleil’s wingspan when fully open is 217 feet. The wings open at 10 a.m., close and open at noon, then close at 5 p.m (8 p.m. on Fridays). The process to open or close takes 3.5 minutes to complete. They are lit beautifully from dusk to closing time. With its size, it dominates the eastern shoreline of the city. Don’t leave town without watching it in action.
Even from a distance, the battleship’s massive 16-inch guns look huge. When in action, those guns could project a shell the size of a Ford Pinto more than 20 miles. At 680 feet in length, the ship was powered by oil-fired steam turbines, producing 130,000 horsepower, routed to four propellers. The Alabama could reach 27.5 knots with a range of 15,000 nautical miles. The ship at sea was home to almost 1,800 officers and enlisted personnel. There is also a well-appointed museum, plus military aircraft on display, including an A-12 Blackbird.
Wikipedia sums it up well: “Visitors are allowed to view the inside of the main gun turrets and anti-aircraft guns. The powder magazine was opened to the public through some holes that were cut, and stairs installed. The bunk of Major League Baseball Hall of Fame member Bob Feller is marked for those touring. Feller served as a gun captain on the Alabama for several years.”
Looking for a quick diversion from the miles of Ohio’s I-70? A short distance south of the freeway in Zanesville, you’ll find the only “Y” bridge in the U.S. This is one of those rare places where you can drive to the center of the bridge, make a left or a right, and not end up in the river. The current bridge, the fifth version with the famous “Y” design, is where Main Street and West Main (also U.S. Route 40, the National Road) meet Linden Avenue.
From Atlas Obscura, I learned aviator Amelia Earhart remarked it made Zanesville “the most recognizable city in the country.”
Not far away, following Linden Avenue to the north, make a quick left turn onto McIntire Avenue, and a few buildings west, you’ll find Tom’s Ice Cream Bowl, once named by USA Today the top ice cream shop in America. The place is a throwback to times long past. Although there have been upgrades over the years, it still has the same nostalgic feel. It’s not Mayberry, it’s Zanesville! It’s one of the places you’ll tell your friends about when you get back home. Continue up McIntire, and at the crest of the hill, turn left for easy access to nearby 1-70.
Call them old school, retro, a novelty. Believe me, from my experience, staying in a tepee is a downright hoot. On what was old Route 66, only two of the original seven Wigwam Motels remain. The original Wigwam Motel in Cave City, Kentucky, is also still in operation. On top of that, my stay in both locations seemed competitively priced. The nearby street noise seems well buffered. I might question their choice in wall decor, but that’s nitpicking. Reservations are a good idea, but there were rooms available when I happened by in both locations.
Labeled as something of a children’s play pen, the City Museum comes at you from every direction. It appears as a puzzle of architectural and industrial odds and ends from parts and pieces of local buildings long gone, magically pieced together to entertain adults and children alike. My wife and I spent hours there, when days wouldn’t have been enough.
The 600,000-square-foot old factory and warehouse is an eclectic mixture of cool stuff meant to entertain on every level. The roof has a Ferris wheel, a slide, and tunnels meant for climbing and sliding, with a metal praying mantis watching over everything. The artwork, collected from artists city-wide, has made the museum a destination. We also loved going up in the Gateway Arch, visiting Forest Park, the first-class St. Louis Art Museum, and the old Capitol building. There, we saw a display on Westward Expansion and the pivotal Dred Scott Case, but most of the stories we share today came from our visit to the City Museum. Consider bringing knee pads if you’re a hands-on person when it comes to fun.
We often validate the places we choose to see with the simple reasoning: Why not? This house, featured in the famous painting by artist Grant Wood, is one of those locations. The painting, which featured his sister and dentist, won a Bronze Award in an art contest put on by the Chicago Institute of Art and earned Wood $300. It was purchased by the institute, where it is still on display.
It made Wood a famous man, and the iconic house, still known as the Dibble House, a destination. There is an adjacent museum/gift shop; the house, which was once on private property, is now open to the public. The visitors’ center provides period-style aprons and jackets worn by the models in the painting for photographs.
Our goal was to follow the Natchez Trace from beginning to end: Nashville, Tennessee, to Natchez, Mississippi. From the National Park Service, I found: “The Natchez Trace Parkway is a 444-mile recreational road and scenic drive through three states. It roughly follows the ‘Old Natchez Trace,’ a historic travel corridor used by American Indians, ‘Kaintucks,’ European settlers, slave traders, soldiers, and future presidents.”
If you are of the proper mindset to ride 444 miles at a 45 mph speed limit, more power to you. But somewhere along those miles, you’ll need a respite. Near its midpoint is Tupelo, the birthplace of Elvis Presley. If it’s nothing else, it’s another “why not,” and you should stop. Riding buddy Dave Levingston and I couldn’t help ourselves, at least with my persistent whining to go there.
We arrived late in the day, only to see the small house’s exterior. That was enough. But behind the house is a gift shop filled with anything you might want to purchase dealing with “The King.” Together, Dave and I contributed greatly to the economy of Tupelo and the State of Mississippi.
Los Angeles has the Petersen Automotive Museum, and Fairbanks, Alaska, the Fountainhead Antique Automobile Museum; both are out of this world. But you’ll find the nicest collection of these three brands in northeastern Indiana.
In what was once a car dealership, you’ll find well over a hundred cars displayed on three floors. The building is a throwback to another automotive era, a better one if you ask any true car enthusiast, when the elite of automobile purchasers demanded their cars be works of art.
No matter what you drove or rode to get there, nothing will match what’s inside. Most of their collection is the three namesakes; however, when I was there, other brands were on display. Today, when it’s a race to get what needs to be done, this place will slow you down and put a smile on your face.
Marvelous isn’t the only word that comes to mind when seeing the sculptures made by Patrick Acton in east central Iowa. World-class comes to mind; the scale of everything simply astonishing, the level of craftsmanship unparalleled. Everything in the museum, even the windblown sails of an old schooner, is made from matchsticks, in some cases a million-plus to produce a single display.
In Patrick’s work, nothing is beyond belief; his work covers everything from nature to history. The precision in what he’s produced is inspiring. If you’re looking for something uncommon, totally out of this world, stop in Eldon for a big surprise. His work is featured around the world in Ripley’s Believe It or Not locations. Museum hours are limited, so check first.
Have you ever wondered what it looks like from the top of an Olympic ski jump ramp? Believe me, it’s awesome! Lake Placid is where the USA won the stunning hockey gold medal in the 1980 Lake Placid Olympics, and Eric Heiden won five more in speed skating – to me, one of the most impressive feats ever accomplished in sports. On top of that, Lake Placid is a beautiful community worthy of a visit. If you go, don’t miss the Olympic Museum. By the way, there’s an elevator to get you to the top of the ski jump.
And now my disclaimer. I’ve been by all of these locations, some recently, others years back. Things change. Check on what I’ve written, as hours vary and some places have narrow windows for viewing. No matter what, go out and explore for your own great finds.