Clockwise from left: The diversion to Neil’ s Harbour is one of the great spur roads off the Cabot Trail. I spied this moose on Benjie’ s Lake back in 2003. A warm welcome from Sheila, Summer, and our dogs.
Beach for bird watching, then continued east along the coast, stopping in Lunenburg, Peggy’ s Cove, and Halifax.
The next day, I continued east on the Marine Drive past Queensport, zigzagged around Bras d’ Or Lake, and settled in Baddeck, again my base for riding the Cabot Trail. A highlight of this second Cape Breton trip was watching a moose slowly make her way along the shore of Benjie’ s Lake until she stood 15 feet before me. The Cabot Trail delivered again.
Heading home, I rode Nova Scotia’ s northern tier along the Northumberland Strait and the Bay of Fundy back to Yarmouth, where I caught the fast ferry to Bar Harbor, Maine. The next day, I arrived home in Massachusetts to heartfelt welcomes from Sheila, our daughter Summer, and the dogs.
Now it’ s two decades later and I’ m back in Cape Breton. This time, I run the Cabot Trail twice, first counterclockwise then clockwise, which delivers two distinct riding experiences. Each run includes side ventures on secondary roads to coastal locales, like Neil’ s Harbour and Dingwall, and on winding roads that parallel the Cabot Trail, like West Middle River Road. The weather gods bathe me in sunshine.
Within Cape Breton Highlands National Park, riding the Cabot Trail is truly a world- class experience, with wonderfully engineered, well- maintained roads. Some northern sections outside the park boundaries sorely need fresh blacktop, although surveyor marks suggest this shortcoming is getting attention.
The mostly American crew that gathered in Baddeck is enjoying the Canada Day holiday on July 1st. After dark, we take in fireworks from a hill overlooking Baddeck Harbour. Three days later, our gracious Canadian hosts at the Cabot Trail Motel put on a splendid fireworks display over Bras d’ Or Lake, since we Americans are missing July 4th fireworks back home. The next morning, fueled by fresh memories of another great Cape Breton experience, I begin my two- day ride home.
Change may be the only constant, but the exceptional roads, sights, and experiences that first drew me to Cape Breton three decades ago remain as ever, waiting to be savored.
Scott“ Bones” Williams engages readers on motorcycle touring, gear, and culture. His writing conveys his love of speed and motion, preference for roads less taken, and role as goodwill ambassador.
RESOURCES:
• Nova Scotia Tourism: NovaScotia. com
• Cape Breton Island Tourism: CBIsland. com
• Cape Breton Highlands National Park: Parks. Canada. ca / pn-np / ns / CBreton
Bay St. Lawrence is the northernmost working harbor on Cape Breton Island.
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