North of Ingonish, I flash back to my first ride to Cape Breton Island. My then- new girlfriend was seated behind me. It was 1993 and I hadn’ t discovered heated gear, so we fought the cold with rainsuits, hers bright red and mine vivid blue. Chilled but invigorated, we cruised a sweeping roadway carved into a rocky coast, looking for Green Cove where migrating whales might be visible from shore. Angry seas made spotting their blows impossible, but no matter; this was a new and exciting adventure.
Rides like that – on great roads, through tremendous scenery, with chances to see wildlife – are my motorcycling nirvana. Now I’ m back for the third time on Cape Breton Island, in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. As before, my base is Baddeck, a town conveniently situated at the start of the world- famous
Cabot Trail( also at the end, since it’ s a loop). A few dozen of the usual suspects, coming from as far as North Carolina, have gathered here to ride this stunning region’ s best roads.
I cross the border from New Brunswick into Nova Scotia, then follow Route 6 and secondary roads along the northern shore. Just off Road 245, in Arisaig Harbour, is the Arisaig Lobster Interpretive Marine Life Centre. Museum- style displays inside reveal fascinating lobster facts. For example, lobsters were so plentiful in the 1800s that the first settlers, the Mi’ kmaq, simply walked the beach at low tide and speared them. What’ s more, lobsters naturally come in many colors( including blue), and all except the albino turn red when cooked. Today the Centre is offering lobster rolls to go, so lunch is easy and delicious.
RIDERMAGAZINE. COM / JULY 2026 / 37