finally rode back into view . He ’ d found some locals fishing by the lake who told him where to see the tower in the distance , but he would ’ ve had to wade through shallow water to get near it .
Back on track , we continued to Norris Dam State Park , where we parked in front of Clinch River Brewery beside other motorcycles to have lunch . Just down the road from the brewery and across the dam , an overlook provided a scenic spot to digest our food .
On Old Tennessee 63 heading north , we enjoyed a pleasant and shaded ride alongside Cove Creek and railroad tracks before heading west through Huntsville and on to our destination for the evening , Rugby .
Below left : The whole town of Rugby comes out to enjoy Irish road bowling . Below right : The buildings in Rugby preserve their Victorianera architectural style , including the old schoolhouse seen here .
Top left : An overnight stay at Grey Gables is a special experience . Below left : We slept in the same room that the Carters had once stayed in . The whole house was clean and inviting , including the spacious porches and common areas .
As the speed limit decreased on the way into Rugby , we saw a sign warning us to use caution and slow down for Irish road bowling . I wondered if Jake was as perplexed as I was . My guess was some sort of construction project .
Among the town ’ s historic Victorian buildings , residents of all ages crowded the main street , some with large balls in hand , some with tall poles , and many waving at us as we rode by . As we approached the action to investigate , a man named Tony welcomed us .
Tony explained that Irish road bowling is a game in which teams attempt to roll heavy cannon balls from one point in the road to another point farther away , then back to the original point . The team to make it back to the original point in the least number of rolls wins the game . As he talked , the townsfolk cheered and rooted for their teams . Tony displayed what we came to recognize as a common trait among the people here : a welcoming attitude that makes strangers feel like friends and family .
When the game was over , we continued about a mile to Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast , where owner Linda Brooks Jones greeted us . Supper was ready , so we quickly washed the road off and headed down to the dining room .
Over a delicious meal of zucchini soup , homemade bread , salad , boneless pork chops with carrots and broccoli , and bananas foster , all washed down with iced almond tea , we enjoyed conversation with the other guests gathered around the table . While we had dessert , Linda joined us and told us more about the town , which was founded as a place for the second sons of the English gentry – those who would not inherit the bulk of their family ’ s fortune – to live in tranquility . I can see why this place was selected for a life of peace and leisure .
DAY 3 : OUTPOSTS AND OUTLAWS
The next day would be the most historic of our trip , including places of somber importance as well as locations of vibrant culture . Our first stop was just down the road at the R . M . Brooks store .
After a delicious breakfast , we followed Linda to her family ’ s store . Now run by Linda ’ s daughter , R . M . Brooks was built in 1930 and is a prominent meeting spot for locals and visitors alike . Linda was happy to play tour guide ,
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