HVAC / HYDRONICS
BY GEORGE LANTHIER
How to Install an Oil Tank : Part 2
Alright , so we pick up where we left off (“ How to Install an Oil Tank : Part 1 ,” page 30 , January 2019 FON ): That is , with piping a typical one-tank install , and look at hooking up the burner supply line . The correct piping materials have already been called out and the only other things that you have to add are “ a properly sized and rated oil filter or strainer ” to meet NFPA31-7.5.8 ( 3 ) and a “ readily accessible thermally activated shutoff valve ” or a “ Firomatic ” Figure 1 , at the tank outlet to comply with NFPA31-7.5.8 ( 2 ).
A little more about the “ readily accessible hand-operated , fusible , springloaded valve .” If you use them , like we have to in Massachusetts , I strongly recommend that you use only those valves and
Figure 1
no other manual valves . Manual valves are banned in Massachusetts under NFPA1-11.5.1.10.10.2 , which also bans ball-spring check valves . The reason I ’ m not a fan of true manual valves in an oil line is that fuel oil will shellac or varnish parts . If any valve , but especially an older springloaded valve , does not get “ exercised ” on a regular basis then it may hang up . If the valve is closed and opened for the servicing of the burner on a routine or annual basis it will not only work as designed but will also give you and your customer a level of safety no other valve can match . When the valve will not close on its own I strongly recommend its replacement .
Finally , you think you ’ re done , but not really , because NFPA31-8.11 now requires that you test all of your handiwork with very specific testing procedures . Section 8.11 has quite a bit in it and rather than go over it all , let me give you the basics .
NFPA31-8.11.1 allows you to test the tank , fittings and piping with air ( pneumatically ). First of all , I remove the last
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