Champagne Bottles to try :
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Current statistics cite 3,700 winegrowers and 57,400 hectares of vineyards , with nearly 30 % farmed either sustainably or organically . The Loire often lurks in the shadows of its showier cousins Burgundy and Bordeaux , but that can be welcome news for oenophiles who prefer varietally bottled offerings to blends , comprised of grapes whose aromas , flavors and crisp acidity shine through and pair effortlessly at the table .
“ Chenin blanc is extremely aromatic with notes of orchard fruits and honeysuckle , nice structure and — depending on the style — can have a luxuriously silky mouthfeel ,” says Rebecca Carey , regional food and beverage director for international hospitality company Lore Group in Washington , D . C . Look to appellations including Anjou , Saumur and Vouvray for high-quality chenin , but also seek out melon de bourgogne and sauvignon blanc , especially mineral-driven versions from Sancerre .
On the red side , cabernet franc ( locally called Breton ) is grown mainly in Anjou- Saumur and Touraine — most famously in the village of Chinon . Youthful styles are light , refreshing and juicy , with aromas of cherries , raspberries and violets that open up nicely with a slight chill and pair well with barbecue , while more mature offerings are bigger , bolder and more complex .
The Loire is also France ’ s number-one producer for AOP sparkling wines outside Champagne : Crémant de Loire is the region ’ s traditional method answer to Champagne . Cabernet franc-based rosé tends to have higher acidity , more restrained fruit and lower alcohol than their provençal counterparts , which make them a fun find for rosé-all-day drinkers .
“ The winemakers here are some of the most humble in France , and the price tags reflect that ,” Carey says . “ It allows the consumer to have great products at great prices .”
CHAMPAGNE Uncorked with a soft pop and poured into a flute , coupe or white wine glass with a large bowl , Champagne induces festive fun that ’ s infectious . But its celebratory overtone belies the fact that this renowned sparkler is actually a serious wine that can more than hold its own at the table — and in fact makes for some unexpected and surprising pairings .
“ In the last year or two I have seen Champagne for consumption outside of just special events , becoming increasingly more popular ,” notes Bobbie Burgess , wine director for Eat Local Starkville in Starkville , MS , and host of UnCorked on the local WCBI News . “ People are realizing that they don ’ t have to wait for a special occasion to start popping good bubbles .”
Many of the Champagne houses got their start in the early to mid 1800s , and the next century saw explosive growth . Today there are 16,200 growers , 4,300 producers and 360 Champagne houses formore than 34,300 hectares . Annually 244.1 bottles of Champagne are shipped , 53.5 % of those exported , and the caves are stocked with more than a billion bottles .
Knead Hospitality ’ s Kulla says that it ’ s refreshing to see more guests recognize and seek out grower producers such as Bereche and Pierre Péters .
Also trending lately is a practice many producers abandoned in the 1950s : barrel-fermenting base wines for added complexity , mouthfeel and ageability .
To respond to climate change and sustainability challenges , the Champagne industry is taking measures including decreasing bottle weight by 20 %, recycling and converting biomass . Champagne producers are also experimenting with more tolerant grape varieties and determining methods to better protect grapes and must from the heat .
Champagne Bottles to try :
NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois ($ 85 ), barrel-fermented and aged on the lees , with aromas of citrus and white peach and flavors of grilled brioche and toffee .
NV Domaine Bérèche et Fils - Brut Reserve NV ($ 60 ), made with equal parts biodynamically grown chardonnay , pinot noir and meunier , with orange , stone fruit and minerality .
NV Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs ($ 65 ), with elegant aromas of delicate citrus , white peach , lemon curd and buttery brioche .
NV Champagne Ayala Rosé Majeur ($ 72 ), made mostly with chardonnay , the low dosage keeps it elegant , generous and full of finesse .
Kelly Magyarics , DWS , is a wine , spirits and lifestyle writer and wine educator based in the Washington , D . C . area .
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