| DEEP DIVE |

BY MELISSA DOWLING

Tao Group Hospitality this past March opened TAO Asian Bistro & Lounge at the Mohegan casino in Uncasville , CT . The 10,000 square-foot , 300-seat Pan-Asian restaurant offers creative craft cocktails and a robust sake program , as well as unique sake cups from Japan .

The Moon On The Water cocktail is a take on the Gimlet and pairs Roku gin , known for its yuzu citrus and sansho pepper notes , with Fukucho sake . The white koji used in the brewing process — overseen by one of the few female brewmasters in Japan — gives this particular sake a bit of effervescence . This highlights the citrus notes and brightens up the classic cocktail .

2 oz . Botanical gin ( such as Roku or The Botanist ) ¾ oz . Rosemary simple syrup * ¾ oz . Cold-pressed lime juice ¾ oz . Fukucho Junmai Ginjo sake

Combine ingredients and shake . Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a sprig of rosemary . * For Rosemary simple syrup : Combine 1 cup of sugar , 1 cup of water and about ¼ cup of rosemary leaves . In a saucepan , bring to a boil . Simmer while stirring until sugar dissolves . Let cool and strain into a jar .

Once upon a time , sake was a drink consumed by just a few — typically aficionados of Japanese food and culture . But that ’ s been changing in recent years .

The rice-based beverage drink has evolved from a ceremonial drink that was most often heated and served in traditional , ceramic cups to a premium spirit that ’ s enjoyed more like a Scotch or fine wine . Sake is also an excellent base for cocktails .

What exactly is sake ? While many people call it rice wine , sake is technically closer to beer , because it ’ s brewed from fermented grain — rice .

There is a broad range of sake quality and prices . Sake flavors can go from light , floral and delicate all the way up to rich and funky . And while sake pairs well with sushi , it ’ s also a great match with other Asian cuisines and many Western foods .

GETTING THE GRADES In brewing sake , the rice is polished or milled ( the outer layer is ground away ), steamed and then mixed with koji , a mold that grows on the rice and converts starch to sugar . Yeast and water are added , and the fermentation process begins .

The milling process plays a key role in the quality of the sake . The outer layers of the rice contain proteins and fats , and when these are milled away , it leaves the center of the grain , which has more pure starch .

So the more the rice is milled , the higher the grade of the sake . The variety of rice , the quality of the water used and the talent of the brewer are also key in sake production .

While sake is available in many different grades , these are the four most common .

DAIGINJO . The most highly polished rice kernels are used to prepare daiginjo sake , which tends to be light and fragrant . At least 50 % of the rice kernel is milled away for this grade of sake .

GINJO . The ginjo sakes are slightly inferior to daiginjos , and have 40 % to 50 % of the rice kernel polished away . These are higher in alcohol , usually 18 % to 20 %.

HONJOZO . Just about 30 % of the rice kernel is polished away for honjozo sakes , so typically some alcohol is added during fermentation . These sakes tend to be dry , medium-light and relatively smooth .

JUNMAI . Full-bodied junmai sakes are more acidic than the other levels and they pair easily with most foods . Junmai means pure , and these sakes are made from rice , filtered water and the koji mold used to start the fermentation .

The nigori variety of sake has become popular in recent years . It ’ s an unfiltered sake , so nigori is cloudy , and tends to be sweeter and more fruity than other sakes . It has a more concentrated , creamy flavor vs . other sakes and pairs well with food .

HOT OR NOT ? Sake is frequently consumed warm in the U . S ., but that ’ s not necessarily the proper or traditional way to serve it . In Japan , sake is sometimes warmed , but only to around 105 º F , according to some experts .

While it ’ s fine to gently warm sake , many recommend chilling it a bit , to about 50 degrees . A sake that ’ s served too hot or too cold can cause you to miss some of the subtle nuances of this delicate and intricate beverage .

Another thing to keep in mind : Sake doesn ’ t improve with age . Sake bottles or cans are stamped with a shipping date , and should be used within two years of this date . It should also be a clear liquid , unless it ’ s a nigori , so a telltale sign that your sake is past its prime is when it starts to yellow .

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