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A horse tows a volcanic millstone to crush the agave hearts for mezcal production .

BY MELISSA DOWLING

The agave spirits category has been blowing up for a few years , with new brands of tequila and mezcal popping up on store shelves and back bars constantly . Tequila and mezcal sales climbed 17.4 %, or $ 587 million , to reach $ 4 billion in 2020 , according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States ( DISCUS ).

Mezcal alone was up 17.7 % or $ 19 million , totaling sales of $ 124 million . The spirit has come a long way from the harsh liquid — often packaged with a worm ( technically moth larvae ) in the bottle — that was rumored to make you hallucinate found on the market a few decades ago .

So what exactly is mezcal ?

LIKE TEQUILA , BUT TECHNICALLY NOT A TEQUILA Mezcal is the over-arching category of Mexican spirits fermented and distilled from several varieties of the agave plant . Contrary to popular belief , the agave is not a cactus but rather a member of the lily family .

Mezcal can be and is made all over Mexico , but primarily in Oaxaca . It can be produced from a number of different agave types .

All tequilas are mezcals , but tequila must be made exclusively from the Weber blue agave variety grown only in five Mexican states ( chiefly Jalisco ) following strict regulations .

Perhaps the biggest difference between tequila and mezcal is production processes . For tequila , the heart of the agave , called the pina , is shredded mechanically and then cooked in closed-kiln ovens .

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For mezcal , the pinas bake in ember-lined pits that give the spirit its characteristic smokiness . The roasted pina are crushed by a volcanic millstone towed by a horse or mule . Whereas many tequilas are produced in quantity at large distilleries , mezcal is still made primarily by small independent artisans .

Growing infatuation with tequila has led to increased interest in and availability of mezcal ; several large spirits companies have acquired mezcal brands . The popularity of mezcal has some concerned about the spirit ’ s supply and sustainability , as demand for it shows no sign of slowing .

Mezcal placed behind only tequila , hard seltzer and ready-to-drink cocktails among emerging categories that retailers expect to stock more in the next year , according to alcohol ecommerce company Drizly ’ s monitor of North America ’ s independent alcohol store owners and managers . Drizly sales show that mezcal ’ s share growth in 2020 vaulted 57 % ahead of the previous year .

How to enjoy mezcal ? A fine mezcal is suitable for sipping , but the spirit also mixes well . Use it in classics to add a smoky note to Margaritas , Palomas and Mules , among others .

Here ’ s an easy recipe to try from the folks at Mezcal Ojo de Tigre .

1 ½ oz . Mezcal 1 ½ oz . Pineapple juice 2 oz . Ginger beer

Build all ingredients over ice in a highball glass . Garnish with a pineapple slice or lime .

14 | SPRING 2021 • CHEERS @ HOME