Betting On
Brandy
Popular Cognac cocktails at Elixir in San Francisco include the Nutty Professor ( left ), which shakes VSOP Cognac with Nardini Mandorla ( a grappa infused with almond oil and cherry distillate ), Novo Fogo cachaça , lemon juice and simple syrup ; and the Japanese Black , with black-tea infused Pierre Ferrand Double Cask Cognac , Angostura bitters and orgeat .
oak , is amber in the glass , with fruity and floral aromas , a full-bodied yet silky mouthfeel and notes of gingerbread .
A BRANDY FOR EVERY COCKTAIL Pisco Punch and Pisco Sours are inextricably linked with pisco , just as a stylish Sidecar or a French 75 are associated with Cognac . The classic Vieux Carré , a stirred libation with rye , Cognac , sweet vermouth , Benedictine and aromatic bitters , is a great example of how brandy is used as an enhancement in split base cocktails or as a modifier .
“ Sometimes these spirits can be a bit cost prohibitive , but many are also very flavorful so just a little bit goes a long way ,” Robinson says . “ Half an ounce of a nice Calvados can add an elegant layer of flavor to say , a stirred whiskey cocktail .”
His Violet Hour is a split base drink that starts with blueberry-infused Old Forester 100 Bourbon and De Luze VS Cognac , stirred with Dolin Genepy , rosemary maple syrup and Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel bitters .
Deadshot also offers several warm tipples when the weather cools down , for which aged brandies and Cognacs are a perfect base . “ Their flavor profile pairs especially well with basking spices , apples , teas and similar ingredients commonly used in hot drinks ,” Robinson continues .
Noar also turns to traditional brandy cocktails — especially during the holiday season and winter , like eggnog with the vanilla-forward E & J XO Cognac or a Tom & Jerry made with Pierre Ferrand Cognac 1840 . The latter bottle is her go-to .
“ It ’ s easy to find and is at a good price point for the quality ,” she says . “ It has caramel and floral notes on the nose , and a full body with vanilla , baking spices and dried fruit on the finish .”
Hirschauer mixes up an alternative to the ubiquitous Espresso Martini made with Cognac and coffee , and also likes serving Cafe Calva with cold brew and Calvados . He also replaces clear spirits like vodka in some drinks with pisco or Blanche Armagnac , which pack more flavor .
Marshall expects to see more Cognac and Cognac cocktails being highlighted as the weather gets cooler , including Highballs made with tonic or ginger ale . She recently developed a libation called Jus du Matin , with VSOC Cognac , smoked salt saline , carrot juice , freshly squeezed orange juice and corn liqueur , shaken , finely strained over one large cube and garnished with a whole parsley leaf .
At Elixir , “ Crustas and Sidebars are still popular orders , but guests are always thrilled to try a new , original Cognac cocktail recipe when we have it ,” Ehrmann says .
Two of their most popular are the Japanese Black , with black-tea infused Pierre Ferrand Double Cask Cognac , Angostura bitters and orgeat , served up with a twist of lemon peel ; and the Nutty Professor , which shakes VSOP Cognac with Nardini Mandorla ( a grappa infused with almond oil and cherry distillate ), Novo Fogo cachaça , lemon juice and simple syrup , served over crushed ice .
New to the menu this season is Figtorious Celebrations , with H by Hine VSOP Cognac , Fresh Victor Grapefruit & Sea Salt Mixer and fig syrup , shaken , strain and served up , garnished with a half of a black mission fig and an optional spritz of Alice & the Magician Spicy Ginger Mist .
For brandy cocktails , Elahi recommends Rujero Singani or Martell VS Cognac , both of which are versatile for a wide range of drinks . At Gravitas , 101 Hospitality ’ s modern American restaurant in Washington , D . C ., she concocted a take on the Club cocktail dubbed the Player ’ s Club . “ To add some more flair , balance and spice , I modified the classic recipe and added pizzazz .”
She shakes Martell VS Cognac and Piras 51 cachaça with spiced pineapple , aquafaba , Scrappy ’ s Firewater bitters and lime juice , with bitters sprayed on top of the foam using a stencil . “ It ’ s light , crisp , refreshing and spicy .”
BRANDY FOR ALL SEASONS Brandy is a surprisingly versatile spirit for pairing with the savory and the sweet . After all , it is made with grapes , which may account for its affinity with cheese .
Rich and creamy cheeses and young mild cheddars work well with younger VS style bottles , Robinson , says , while while longer-aged gouda and cheddar , as well as nutty and washed rind cheeses , pair with older Cognac expressions . Chocolate , figs , roasted chestnuts , seafood and duck are other pairing ideas .
As far as what ’ s next for the category , Marshall hopes to see the availability of more single variety Cognacs , since most on the market are made from blends . She ’ d also like to taste expressions from the lesser-known Dordogne region , which is still part of the AOC .
For Cognac and brandy newbies and enthusiasts alike , Marshall has one piece of advice . “ Don ’ t limit yourself . Taste , experiment , and enjoy it year round , not just during the fall and winter .”
Kelly Magyarics , DWS , is a wine , spirits and lifestyle writer and wine educator based in the Washington , D . C . area .
24 • Winter 2022 www . cheersonline . com