FIRST SIP
THE WINE GLASS IS HALF FULL
The wine industry ’ s struggles have been well documented in recent years , from people cutting back their alcohol consumption overall to younger folks not embracing wine the way their parents did , to competition from spirits , cocktails and ready-to-drink beverages , among other challenges .
During the Walt Klenz Leadership Series at the Robert Mondavi Institute at the University of California at Davis , the wine writer Karen MacNeil noted that as wine consumption around the world declines and wine drinking becomes de-normalized , wine writing as a profession is vanishing . That ’ s not going to help people discover and appreciate wine .
And there ’ s plenty to discover and appreciate these days . As noted in our beverage trends article in the last issue , white wines — white wine blends in particular — are heating up . Wine Growth Brands winner Foley Family Wines confirms the popularity of aromatic white wines , with increases in sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio . ( See “ The Grape Ones ” on page 22 for more .)
Low- / no-alcohol wines resonate with guests as well , as evidenced by several Growth Brands winners that have tapped the segment .
Natural or low-intervention wines may be another way to get people into wine . A recent On & Off podcast with guest Steve Charters , Master of Wine and professor at the School of Wine & Spirits Business in Dijon , France , discussed natural wine and how it appeals to the new generations of wine drinkers . ( For this and other episodes of On & Off , visit Cheersonline . com .)
Vermouth may soon show some strength , thanks to cocktails such as the Negroni and Martini and the popularity of Spritz drinks . While the vermouth / apéritif category fell 1.3 % in 2023 , according to the Beverage Information Group , that ’ s less than the 3.4 % overall wine decrease .
Sparkling wine consumption also dropped 3.4 %, after posting growth for 20 consecutive years since 2002 , yet the major prosecco brands managed to grow .
And sparklers still shine on-premise : Wine pros interviewed for our cover story shared a few of the effervescent offerings and strategies that appeal to guests , from flights and cocktails to petillant naturel , lambrusco and non-alcoholic options . ( See page 9 for more .)
Bubbly wines from areas beyond France and Italy can also spark interest . For example , the airport wine bar chain Vino Volo recently reported success with a sparkling pais from Chile .
So while the challenges in selling wine today may be substantial , opportunities abound as well . Cheers !
Melissa Dowling , Editor
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