Cheers Summer 2023 | Page 33

Gin fuses modern and classic as a cocktail staple

Gin

A LOOK AT GIN IN 2023 BY JAMIE STAFFORD

O ver the centuries since its inception , gin has experienced a meteoric rise and fall . In the 18th century , it was branded “ Mother ’ s Ruin ” and “ Opium of the People ,” and comprised the majority of the spirits black market in Europe and the U . K . By the 20th century , gin had largely fallen out of favor as other spirits became more fashionable .

But gin has been tentatively rediscovered in recent years by curious consumers and distilleries looking to offer a unique twist on a spirit with hundreds of years of history . Gin ’ s modern comeback was accelerated by the pandemic when people started experimenting with at-home mixology and were seeking out both new and classic cocktails .
“ From what we ’ ve experienced , the popularity of gin has continued to grow ,” says Lance Winters , master distiller of Alameda , CAbased St . George Spirits .“ Consumers are looking for complex bases for both spirit-forward cocktails and lighter drinks .”
“ Gin has become cool again ,” says Phil Lecours , master distiller of Empress Gin , an
Phil Lescours indigo gin that remains a favorite of many mixologists . “ More and more people are trying it out , liking it , and continuing on with it . The ultra-premium segment , especially , has grown in the double digits for the past few years . Customers are still really supporting our brand and our gin . I would say we ’ re getting a lot of carryover from other spirits as well . People who typically drink vodka , wines and such are gravitating towards gins now .”
JUNIPER ROOTS Gin starts with a neutral grain base , like vodka . Unlike vodka , however , gin has a very specific flavor profile due to the use of botanicals ( prominently juniper ) infused during the distilling process .
While there are still historic expressions of gin that remain today — namely , Old Tom and Plymouth gin — the most iconic remains the London Dry style . This style features a prominent juniper palate that has come to be indicative of the spirit . Popular examples of the style include
Beefeater and Tanqueray London Dry ( not to be
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