2021 DRINK RESPONSIBLY

By Melissa Dowling

Bulrush restaurant in St . Louis uses foraged ingredients and zero-waste practices to tell the stories of the Ozark region ’ s melting pot of people during the 19th century . In addition to the hyper-seasonal tasting menu and craft bar experience , Bulrush , which opened in 2018 , prides itself on a selection of no-alcohol cocktails that also include foraged ingredients .

Chef / owner and expert forager Rob Connoley sought to create a spirit-free program as extensive and challenging as the regular cocktail list for two reasons .

“ First , I want every customer to have the same experience , meaning , regardless of if you ’ re drinking alcohol , each guest should have the same rhythm of food and drink flow , the same service interactions , and at the end of the meal , feel like they had the same experience ,” he says . “ No one should feel like they ’ ve missed out by not enjoying alcoholic drinks .”

The second reason is simple : money . “ When guests come to Bulrush , they ’ re coming for a special meal ,” Connoley says . “ It would be ridiculous of me to not offer an opportunity for every guest to enjoy the experience in a way that suits them , and in return , I am able to charge a price for the product .” Mocktails at Bulrush are priced at $ 11 ; cocktails are $ 16 .

To preserve the authenticity of this nearly forgotten cuisine , Bullrush uses only ingredients that can be justified through historical research and knowledge of the time period . For example , there are no lemons behind the bar , because the fruit did not become available to the area until later in the 1900s . Instead , Bulrush uses of a variety of vinegars , kombucha and kefir — all made in-house — as substitutes for sour components .

“ Our drink development is no different than our food menu development ,” says Connoley . “ We always start with an ingredient for inspiration , and then build flavors and textures around that initial ingredient to create a well-rounded cocktail .”

The current cocktail menu includes the Rum Cow # 2 , with chanterelle-infused rum , Cognac , black walnut ogreat , blackened corn and fennel ; and the Paw Paw Sour , with paw paw fruit puree , paw paw vinegar , egg white and made with the choice of vodka or gin .

Spirit-free sips for the spring menu , created by mixologist Andy Printy , include the Maple Rag Time , which is 1 ½ oz . of chai , roasted sweet potato water and maple syrup , dispensed from an ISI nitro system into a Champagne glass and topped with sparkling water . The Funny Fennel Fizz uses 1 ½ oz . of a local honey and fennel syrup in a coupe glass , topped with 2 oz . sparkling water , garnished with powdered beet .

The Missouri Marsupial combines 1 oz . of beet and green strawberry shrub ( a sweetened drinking vinegar ) and ½ oz . apple cider in a rocks glass , topped with tonic water , shiso oil and a torched bay leaf . And the Not Tea by Nature , served in a teacup , is 1 oz . of strawberry and watermelon shrub , topped with 3 oz . of Well Being Heavenly Body nonalcoholic beer and garnished with shiso foam and ground allspice .

Bullrush customers have embraced the spirit-free cocktails , with 80 % of them enjoying some for pairing with their meal . “ While some guests are in recovery , others are pregnant , and some are simply being responsible drivers ,” Connoley says . “ Having the option on the menu , and not relegated to a ‘ mocktail ’, conveys a level of care and complexity that makes the drinks more enticing , and it reflects in sales .”

Fuzzy Fennel Fizz

Not Tea by Nature

Missouri Marsupial

6 Drink Responsibly 2021