WHO : Madeline Maldonado , lead sommelier , Mercado Little Spain in New York . WINE : Balma Brut Nature Reserva Mas Bertran , Xarl-lo , Macabeo , Parellada — Classic Penedes 2017 ($ 16 a glass ) WHY : I love bubbles , and they can be enjoyed to start a meal , to enjoy with food and at the end of the meal . It ’ s a wine that is not only limited to celebrating but they can be gastronomic , and the Balma is a good example of a gastronomic sparkling wine . Please note it is not a cava , but an area that is committed to higher quality fruits , sustainability , and smaller production . Classic Penedes .
WHO : Craig Biggins , general manager , Oak at Fourteenth in Boulder , CO . WINE : Château Bela Riesling , Sturovo , Mula , Slovakia ($ 14 a glass ) WHY : This is a fun wine to feature because it is made by Egon Müller , a great winemaker from the Mosel in Germany . It is an ancient property that was first planted to vine by the Romans . He ferments this wine dry , and it has the classic unmistakable character of citrus , flint , beeswax and mineral crispness comparable to the great rieslings made in Austria and Alsace rather than Müller ’ s native Mosel style .
WHO : Bryce Faucheaux , wine director , Justine in New Orleans . WINE : Benoît Cantin Irancy 2019 ($ 16 a glass ) WHY : “ Wine from Irancy is seen on wine lists all over Beaune and in Paris , but is virtually unheard of in the U . S ., especially from a by-the-glass standpoint . Irancy is a village in the northwest corner of Burgundy in the same département that Chablis is located in ( Yonne département ); it is also the only appellation in the Yonne that can make red wine .
Benoît Cantin makes a wonderful representation of Irancy that is 100 % pinot noir , although up to 10 % combined pinot gris and césar are allowed to be blended into these reds . I ’ m hugely terroir-focused , so I love that this wine shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone with Champagne , Chablis , and Sancerre .
The intense minerality of this soil clearly translates into Cantin ’ s vibrant and energetic wines . Cantin also promotes sustainability : Grapes are hand harvested ; the wines are fermented in cement tanks and aged in oak barrels ( 15 % new ; sourced from the family ’ s land and from a local forest ).
This wine has that unmistakable red Burgundy charm , with a wonderful combination of dark cherry , cardamom , forest floor and violets . There ’ s a medium ruby color with glints of garnet ; on the palate , there ’ s elegance , structure , a silky texture , great concentration , and a light to medium body . With how expensive Burgundy has become , this is a great bottle and region that has been widely undiscovered .”
WHO : Jason Hedges , beverage director , LT Hospitality In New York . WINE : Bruno Giacosa , Roero Arneis , Piedmont 2022 ($ 22 a glass ) WHY : This wine has vibrant acidity giving it great structure to back up its fruity and aromatic profile , which is redolent with notes of citrus and orchard fruit and floral notes of white flowers and orange blossoms . It ’ s also a versatile wine that can be enjoyed on its own or paired with several summer dishes . Its acidity and freshness make it a great companion to seafood , light salads , grilled vegetables and white meat dishes .
WHO : Hannah Hopkins , proprietor , Yampa Valley Kitchen , Bésame and Mambo ’ s Italiano in Steamboat Springs , CO . WINE : 2022 Lunaria “ Ramora ” biodynamic pinot grigio from Abruzzo , Italy ($ 12 a glass /$ 48 a bottle ) WHY : We are excited to be offering this organic and biodynamic wine by the glass at Yampa Valley Kitchen . It pairs so well with our entire concept .
It ’ s not only beautiful to look at because of coppery color , but it ’ s so delicious with aromas of melon , Asian pear , stone fruit with a good amount of minerality and a refreshing finish . This pairs well with lighter food , salads and seafood . •
www . cheersonline . com Spring 2024 • Cheers 15