By Thomas Henry Strenk

If you ’ re interested in spirits and cocktails , you ’ ve probably noticed that tequila has been heating up . Mezcal has become more popular as well .

But what ’ s the difference between the two ? And what are these other spirits from Mexico starting to pop up here , such as bacanora and sotol ?

A wide range of spirits can be distilled from agave plants , so it can be confusing . Here ’ s a quick rundown of that spectrum , and a look at what defines each different category of agave spirits .

MEZCAL

Mezcal is the overarching category of Mexican spirits fermented and distilled from several varieties of the agave plant . It is produced all over Mexico under various names and designations , including tequila . Bottles labeled “ mezcal ” are usually from the state of Oaxaca , and often have a smoky flavor because , during production , the agave hearts are roasted in rock-lined pits fired by mesquite .

TEQUILA

Tequila is a type of mezcal produced under strict regulations as to how and where it can be made . Tequila is fermented and distilled from a single type of agave plant : Agave tequilana Weber blue . Tequila is not smoky , because the agave hearts are steamed or kilned during production . It can only be produced in Jalisco , and designated areas in four other Mexican states .

The best tequilas are 100 % blue agave , which is noted on the label . Distinctions are often made between tequila made from blue agave grown in highland regions , which tend to be fruitier , and from lowlands , which are earthier .

BACANORA

Named for the eponymous town in Sonora , this mezcal variant is made from wild plants of agave Pacifica . Bacanora is often lighter and less smoky than most mezcals , even though the agaves are also pit roasted .

R A I C I LL A

Like tequila , raicilla is made in Jalisco state ; unlike tequila , it is made from two varieties of agave — lechuguilla and puta de mula . Raicilla tends to be sweeter and fruitier than most other mezcals .

SOTOL

Although a gringo might mistake it for agave , sotol is made from another succulent plant called Desert Spoon . It ’ s produced mainly in the Mexican states of Chihuahua , Durango and Coahuila . The process of making sotol is similar to mezcal , with roasting of the hearts of Desert Spoon in volcanic rock-lined pits . Flavor varies according to the terroir , say aficionados ; predominately herbal notes , as well as eucalyptus , pepper and cocoa , with lighter smoke accents .

Thomas Henry Strenk is a Brooklynbased writer specializing in all things drinkable .

8 2023 Spirit of Mexico