Spirit of MEXICO
ON THE ROAD : Oaxaca , Mexico
Making Mezcal Memories
By Melissa Dowling
Tequila has been on a roll in recent years , and mezcal is on the rise in the U . S . as well . Consumers have become enchanted with agave spirits thanks to wider varieties and higher-quality offerings available , as well as increased interest in Mexican holidays and traditions .
The mezcal brand Montelobos hosted a group of bartenders and journalists on a trip to Oaxaca , Mexico , this past fall , providing an opportunity to experience the culture and history of the land . The visit included special traditions such as a Dia de los Muertos parade in Oaxaca , as well as guided tours of the agave fields and palenque where Montelobos is created , and dinners that highlight the spirit as well as the vibrant local food scene .
THE APPEAL OF AGAVE While mezcal is not quite as popular as tequila , tequila is technically a mezcal ; it must be produced from a single type of agave with tight regulations as to how and where it can be made . Mezcal can be distilled from several varieties of the agave plant , and is made all over Mexico under various names and designations .
Most mezcal — about 80 % — comes from the state of Oaxaca . There are about 35 different agave species in
Oaxaca , says Montelobos Master Distiller Ivan Saldaña , a chemist with a PhD in botany . “ Oaxaca is a country by itself , with enormous richness ,” he said .
Saldaña founded Montelobos Mezcal in 2010 with fellow agave specialist Don Abel López Mateos , a fifth-generation mezcalero . The chief innovation officer of Mexican spirits producer Casa Lumbre , Saldaña also created Ancho Reyes , a chile liqueur inspired by a 1920s family recipe , among other products . ( Campari Group later acquired a majority stake in Montelobos and Ancho Reyes in 2019 . )
With Montelobos , Saldaña aimed to create a mezcal with balance and complexity that expressed the agave plant . What makes agave so special ?
Adaptability , for one thing , said Saldaña , speaking during a tour of the Yagul archaeological site in Oaxaca . “ Agave is a lily that learned to adapt to the desert ,” he noted .
No other spirit has the same biology as agave , Saldaña added . Flavor-wise , “ Agave spirits are the most complex spirits in the world .”
DISTILLING CULTURAL HERITAGE Montelobos is distilled from 100 % organic agave espadin from Oaxaca ’ s Mountain of Wolves ; that ’ s where the name
Agave fields in Oaxaca .
A lineup of Montelobos Mezcal showed off the variety of this Mexican spirit .
6 2023 Spirit of Mexico