BY KELLY MAGYARICS

THANKS TO A PLETHORA OF NEW STYLES AND PRODUCTS , IT ’ S A THRILLING TIME FOR SPARKLING WINE

Indeed , that adage can be expanded to include all of the exciting global options available these days , from the tried-and-true to the emerging — which should be savored , not saved . It helps that sommeliers extol sparkling wine ’ s effortless food-friendliness with everything from fried chicken to foie gras . Wine drinkers today are also more eager to venture into various styles , regions and varieties .

CHAMPAGNE WISHES AND CREMANT DREAMS The eternal , ultimate standard for sparkling wine , Champagne continues to attract imbibers drawn to its heritage , production method , quality and prestige . But its popularity is widening from non-vintage ( and vintage ) expressions from well-known houses to those that represent a larger swath of the category .

“ We are taking a modern approach to Champagne with our list in general , with a stronger emphasis on grower Champagnes and terroir-driven Champagnes ,” says Erin Dudley . She oversees the wine program for Josephine , a

new 285-seat French brasserie in Old Town Alexandria , VA , as part of her role as wine director for Neighborhood Restaurant Group .

At Josephine , Dudley ’ s wine program has a strong focus on French sparkling wines , specifically Champagne , with very few well-known houses represented . She offers 10 sparkling wines by the glass , including four Champagnes , all available in a 3-oz . coupe or a 5-oz . glass ; prices range from $ 7 to $ 17 for the former , and $ 12 to $ 28 for the latter . Champagne options include Klepka Sausse “ Pream ’ Bulle ” Grand Cru ($ 16 /$ 27 ), Louis Dumont Champagne Rosé ($ 15 for a 3-oz . coupe ; $ 25 a 5-oz . glass ) and Charles Orban Carte Noire Champagne Brut ($ 17 /$ 28 ).

While Dudley strives to always have a blanc de blancs , blanc de noirs , classic blend and rosé Champagne available by the glass , the list reaches well beyond that . “ We make sure to offer a wide range of sparkling wine styles , from bone dry and mineral to round and fruity .”

She ’ s particularly excited about crémants , traditional-method French sparkling wines produced in other areas besides Champagne , especially those made in the Jura region between Switzerland and Burgundy . “ These wines , often made of chardonnay and / or pinot noir in the sub-Alpine region , are beautifully round and luscious at a fraction of the price of Champagne .”

One example is the Patrick Bottex “ La Cueille ” Bugey Cerdon Rosé , priced at $ 11 for 3-oz . and $ 18 for 5-oz .

Other crémants at Josephine include the Salasar Carte Azur , Crémant de Limoux Brut ($ 7 /$ 12 ), and the Paul Buissé

30 • Fall 2023 www . cheersonline . com