“ We ’ ve aged some wines that are ‘ base bottlings ’ of producers , some of which aren ’ t that expensive , and seen them completely change paths ,” he admits . “ You can turn a $ 30 bottle into something that ’ s amazing , with just a little patience .”
Grill 23 & Bar offers more than 200 sparkling wines priced from $ 44 to $ 9,000 per bottle , in all styles and categories — even sparkling riesling from Germany that dates back to 1984 . “ I ’ m encouraged by how many more people are drinking Champagne today than in years past ,” Bensimon says . “ It seems to have finally crossed the threshold of not only being opened on special occasions .”
Of Grill 23 & Bar ’ s three sparklers by the glass , two are Champagne : Vilmart & Cie ‘ Grand Cellier ” Brut Champagne ($ 43 ) and J . Lassalle “ Préference ” Premier Cru Brut Champagne ($ 28 ). The other option is Zonin prosecco ($ 13 ).
ITALIAN-STYLE SPARKLERS Speaking of prosecco , whether in a Mimosa or as an apéritif , its popularity isn ’ t waning . But this Italian Charmat-method sparkling wine hailing from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene region of the Veneto is no longer always a simple , easy-drinking quaffer .
At Stirrups , the 150-seat steakhouse and seafood restaurant at the 248-room Equestrian Hotel at the World Equestrian Center in Ocala , FL , beverage director Roland Micu delights and surprises guests when he pours the Giusti Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut . Full-bodied and structured , it boasts vibrant acidity and more complexity than some of its Veneto cousins and over-delivers for $ 40 a bottle .
“ Many proseccos lack the acidity to balance the sugar content , but Giusti is a Champagne drinker ’ s prosecco ,” Micu says . A temperature-controlled primary fermentation results in a fresh and clean flavor , he says .
Stirrups has 41 sparkling wines by the bottle priced $ 40 to $ 4,200 ( for a vintage magnum ), and three by the glass : Col de Salici Prosecco ($ 11 ), Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut ($ 35 ) and Placido Moscato d ’ Asti ($ 9 ).
Panorama Wine Bar , a 147-seat concept in the 51-room Penn ’ s View Hotel in Philadelphia , offers more than 120 wines on tap and 30 tasting flights , including 11 sparkling wines . General manager and wine director William Eccleston says that the 2020 Prosecco Rosé “ Treviso ” Ruggeri ($ 15 a glass , $ 75 a bottle ) “ takes prosecco to a new level with the extra depth of flavor pinot noir can add to any sparkling wine .”
Eccleston offers other Italian sparklers at Panorama Wine Bar , including Antica Fratta Brut Franciacorta NV ($ 22 a glass , $ 110 a bottle ), Italy ’ s traditional method answer to Champagne . And he sells three different styles of Lambrusco , from dry to amabile ( slightly sweet ).
These include Lini 910 Lambrusco Bianco dell ’ Emilia ($ 16 a glass , $ 80 a bottle ), Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosso dell ’ Emilia ($ 16 a glass , $ 80 a bottle ) and Cantina Settecani Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($ 17 a glass , $ 85 a bottle .) “ This shines a light on this traditional yet often underexplored style of sparkling that pairs especially well with tomato sauce and other Italian menu items ,” Eccleston says .
Brut nature styles , which are bone dry with zero dosage , are also one of Eccleston ’ s growing interests , as are pours from up-and-coming regions . “ The Sidónio de Sousa Brut Nature Branco Bairrada Método Clássico from Portugal [$ 15 a glass , $ 75 a bottle ] particularly turns heads as my own pet recommendation for a great value sparkling wine that is polished , stylish , and well-crafted from an area that has really stepped up the quality of their winemaking in recent years .”
It ’ s yet another example of the sparkling surprises that continue to bubble up all over . BW
Kelly Magyarics , DipWSET , is a wine , spirits , travel and lifestyle writer in the Washington , D . C . area .
Just Add Bubbles
Sparkling wine is the perfect base for the low-ABV cocktails that speak to the current trend of mindful drinking — moderate alcohol consumption as part of a healthy lifestyle — that counters pandemic-era overindulgence . Spritz variations including the Negroni Sbagliato , which subs in prosecco for gin , the orange soda-based Poppi Aperol Spritz , and the heady , elderflower Hugo Spritz have taken Tik Tok ( and subsequently , the drinks world ) by storm .
At Testaccio , a 75-seat Roman-inspired restaurant and wine bar in Chicago , beverage director Joe Crivolio curates a selection of spritz-friendly ingredients for an aperitivo hour menu . Guests can build their own perfect creation , or take some cues from Crivolio and staff .
He recommends mixing things up by turning to alternatives to Aperol and Campari , and swapping out prosecco for other sparklers . For instance , Lambrusco has a fuller body and either sweetness or dryness , depending on the style , while cava makes for a bright , sharp , “ biscuity ” spritz ; and pét-nats are produced in a wide range of styles .
Crivolio ’ s Rosato Sbagliato ($ 14 ), which combines Contratto bitter liqueur with Cocchi Americano Rosa , topped with La Divina Lambrusco Pet Nat and garnished with an orange wedge , has “ a tighter bubble carbonation and additional flavor depth from the Lambrusco .” He also says Lambrusco works well in a Sangria-esque spritz .
Royal Boucherie , a 150-seat brasserie in Philadelphia , recently relaunched its popular seasonal Spritzer Bar . Overseen by lead bartender Eden Beschen , the offering is a choose-your-own-adventure that highlights the restaurant ’ s amaro selection and lets guests concoct a customizable effervescent elixir .
Step one is to select either a light base by way or a vermouth or aromatized wine such as Carpano Antica , Dolin Dry or Lillet Rouge , a bitter base like Campari , Bonal , Faccia Brutto Aperitivo or Salers Gentian Apéritif , or a sweeter liqueur like Cassis , Framboise , Pamplemousse or St . Germain . Step two tops that base with De Perrière sparkling white or rosé — or club soda for an ever lower-proof sip — along with ice and a relevant garnish . Spritzes are priced at $ 16 for the wine versions or $ 14 for seltzer .
It ’ s all about providing guests with the most unique and fulfilling experience possible , says Beschen . “ The Spritzer Bar brings a personalized twist to our selection of craft cocktails .”
Fall 2023 • Beverage Wholesaler 25