among those who drink bourbon as an affordable alternative for vintages and big bold flavors ,” says Steven Hirschauer , bartender , consultant and educator of The Responsible Glutton in San Diego , who has several spirit certifications including Cognac BNIC and Armagnac BNIA .
He points to high-quality offerings worth seeking out like PM Spirits L ’ Encantada and portfolios from importers Charles Neal and Heavenly Spirits , including Armagnac DeLord , Château de Hontambere , Château de Pellehaut and Domaine Boingnères .
Cognac producers have been getting creative in promoting their brands and reaching new audiences with cocktails . For instance , Bacardi Cognac brand D ’ Ussé , recently partnered with mixologist Christine Kim on an immersive cocktail experience at the Taste of Asia fundraiser in New York , included premium tea-infused Cognac cocktails .
D ’ Ussé , founded by Shawn “ Jay-Z ” Carter , is the fastest grower among the brandy and Cognac brands , according to the 2022 Liquor Handbook , increasing 59 % from 2020 to 2021 . Hennessy is the top Cognac brand while E & J is the leading domestic brandy brand and Presidente is the top imported brandy .
AMERICAN CRAFT BRANDY EXCITES “ We are seeing younger brands take an interest in brandy , and I hope that translates to people opening their eyes to what brandy can be ,” says Riki Noar , wine and spirits specialist at the Fine Wine and Good Spirits store in Girard , PA . She ’ s been noticing more brandies from smaller American distilleries , like the locally produced Eight Oaks Barrel Aged Applejack .
More readily available are expressions from larger U . S . distilleries like Clear Creek in Oregon , founded in 1985 . Their flagship product , an unaged pear brandy , is joined by others like Old Delicious Double Bourbon Barreled Apple Brandy . Robinson cites the region ’ s overabundance of fruit production that makes for great brandy — and admits that his customers may be more knowledgeable about them since they are located in their backyard .
Copper & Kings , operating in the heart of bourbon country in Louisville , KY , produces award-winning American Craft Brandy , Butchertown Brandy and American Apple Brandy , all aged mainly in bourbon barrels . But they are always pushing the envelope with experimental techniques and maturation methods for their brandies — including sonic aging . “ Brandy is a spirit genre that is overlooked , but a brandy drinker is adventurous and loves to try other spirits ,” according to Judy Elahi , corporate bar director for 101 Hospitality in Washington , D . C . “ I recommend trying a brandy that you wouldn ’ t typically order .”
Squarely in this camp is Fumus Pumila from Baltimore Spirits Co ., a smoked apple brandy that ’ s infused with Appalachian spices and herbs . “ I used to work at a bar that served only domestic spirits , and this was our ‘ mezcal ’ sub ,” Elahi recalls . “ It has a clean appleforward palate with smoke and herbs on the finish .”
Chilean winery Lapostolle has released Pisco Blanco and Pisco XO , both produced in a process similar to that used for Cognac .
D ’ Ussé is the fastest grower among the brandy and Cognac brands ; it increased 59 % from 2020 to 2021 .
HOW ABOUT THEM APPLES ? AND GRAPES ? Close in pedigree to American apple brandy is an elegant French expression that is a favorite of Corinne Bresse , director of operations for the 283-seat contemporary European bistro The Henri in Washington , D . C . “ The most exciting [ style ] for me is Calvados , which has small producers and excellent quality .”
Hailing from the Normandy region , this spirit can
The Player ’ s Club cocktail at Gravitas restaurant in Washington , D . C ., with Martell VS Cognac and Piras 51 Cachaca with spiced pineapple , aquafaba , Scrappy ’ s Firewater bitters and lime juice .
be produced by distilling cider made from apples or pears ; top producers include Avallen , Boulard and Christian Drouhin .
Pisco , a favorite in South America and beyond , recently received two new expressions to the category . Chilean winery Lapostolle ’ s new offerings honor the legacy of the seventh-generation producers . Lapostolle Pisco Blanco and Pisco XO are made with pink muscat and Muscat of Alexandria sourced from Chile ’ s Elqui and Limari Valleys , and produced in a process similar to that used for Cognac , including a copper alembic still .
Pisco Bianco is clear with notes of lemongrass , white fruit , herbs and tangerine ; Pisco XO , aged for six years in French oak , is amber in the glass , with fruity and floral aromas , a full-bodied yet silky mouthfeel and notes of gingerbread .
A BRANDY FOR EVERY COCKTAIL Pisco Punch and Pisco Sours are inextricably linked with pisco , just as a stylish Sidecar or a French 75 are associated with Cognac . The classic Vieux Carré , a stirred libation with rye , Cognac , sweet vermouth , Benedictine and aromatic bitters , is a great example of how brandy is used as an enhancement in split base cocktails or as a modifier .
“ Sometimes these spirits can be a bit cost prohibitive , but many are also very flavorful so just a little bit goes a long way ,” Robinson says . “ Half an ounce of a nice Calvados can add an elegant layer of
12 Beverage Wholesaler • Winter 2022