Beverage Wholesaler Summer 2023 | Page 6

// VINSIGHTS BY MARNIE OLD

Newcomers to wine often find it confusing that wines rarely smell or taste like grapes .

Most white wines smell more of tree fruits like apples or peaches , while red wines more often taste more like berries or cherries . One reason why is that grapes taste less distinctive than some other fruits , with a flavor that is less immediately recognizable than that of an orange or pineapple , for instance .

The other factor at play is that during fermentation , countless smaller chemical reactions trigger . This generates flavor compounds like esters and aldehydes that add new flavors and scents to the wine , flavors which may not have been present or detectable in the fresh fruit .

Exotic terms are often used to describe these non-grape aromatics , usually by naming other fruits , foods or spices that they resemble . However , these are not ingredients added during winemaking , just metaphors used to characterize wine ’ s diverse scents by likening them to more familiar flavors and scents from elsewhere .

THE ALCOHOL EQUATION :

RAW MATERIAL

FERMENTATION AGENT

PRODUCTS OF FERMENTATION

Wine is produced through fermentation , a process in which living yeast cultures convert sugar into alcohol . Fermentation is what makes wine aromatically complex and enjoyable , much the way it does for cheeses . The unique flavors of French Brie , Wisconsin Cheddar and Italian Gorgonzola derive entirely from fermentation and aging , not from their raw material – cow ’ s milk . Since yeasts can significantly alter the flavors and scents found in their raw materials , vintners and cheesemakers alike choose their yeast strains carefully , to exert control over how their finished products will taste and smell . Think of yeast as the magic pixie dust that transforms the humble grape into much more flavorful and complex wine . BW

YEASTS : THE MAGICAL FUNGUS AMONG US Yeasts are microscopic organisms : single-celled members of the fungus kingdom that live among us unseen . All sorts occur naturally in almost every environment , particularly those of the sugar-eating saccharomyces genus used in baking , brewing and winemaking . These yeasts consume sugar , and their metabolism breaks it down into alcohol and carbon dioxide . Fermentation always begins spontaneously thanks to the presence of wild yeasts in the vineyard and winery . Nowadays , many modern vintners prefer to inoculate with cultured yeast strains for more predictable results .

MARNIE OLD is one of the country ’ s leading wine educators . Formerly the director of wine studies for Manhattan ’ s French Culinary Institute , she is best known for her visually engaging books published by DK such as Wine : A Tasting Course . Marnie currently serves as director of vinlightenment for Boisset Collection .

6 Beverage Wholesaler • Summer 2023