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3 WINE AND CHEESE PAIRINGS
What pairs better with wine than cheese ? This classic match traces its history back centuries , and has never been better thanks to modern production methods . We live in a golden age of premiumization and craft / artisanal products , creating some truly divine combinations between fromage and its age-old partner .
How should you combine them ? For suggestions , we recently spoke with Diana Brier , owner and cheese director at Valley Cheese & Wine , Las Vegas ’ longest-running cheese and wine store . An all-around cheese aficionado , Brier is one of only 45 people in the U . S to hold a Certified Sensory Evaluator certificate from the American Cheese Society . Here ’ s what she recommends :
BROADBENT VINHO VERDE WITH PISTACHIO TORTA Diana Brier says : “ Broadbent is a high-volume , no-BS vinho verde . It ’ s what I call a ‘ porch slammer ’. We sold 1,000 bottles of it last year , which is crazy for a shop my size . It ’ s an accessible wine both in price range and flavor profile , which makes it an easy grab for everybody and every mood . Are you happy ? Vinho verde . Have a bad day ? Vinho verde .
Lots of beginners come into the shop looking for something different but friendly , and I point them to that wine . It has a slight natural effervescence , zippy citrus notes , and a refreshing minerality . I ’ m usually happy to crack one open for sampling and most customers love it . It ’ s something different but fun , and is a low barrier to entry into this industry .
For this pairing , I like to ‘ keep it cute ’. This isn ’ t meant to get too complicated . We make a pistachio torta in house using fresh chevre , honey and freshly ground pistachios , and it ’ s another fan favorite of our shop . The torta is tart , sweet , nutty , and creamy . The tartness compliments the wine ’ s citrus notes , the sweetness contrasts with the wine ’ s dryness . We work with contrast and compliment in this pairing .
That ’ s how I like to break things down : by extrapolating individual characteristics of each component and pairing them up .”
AMEZTOI RUBENTIS TXAKOLINA ROSADO WITH HOLEY COW BABY SWISS “ The wine shows green bell pepper and jalapeno , as well as both tart and ripe strawberry notes . It is zesty and juicy , with a nice high acidity and bright minerality that is characteristic of its region .
I pair that with a domestically produced baby swiss called Holey Cow from Central Coast Creamery . It has a characteristic ‘ swissy ’ flavor profile , and pockets of salty sweetness delivered via a creamier texture than one might expect from this style of cheese .
That texture is what really makes this pairing work . It coats the palate and provides a canvas for the wine to paint its flavors on , and the cheese ’ s salty sweetness is a perfect compliment to acidity and minerality of the wine . It ’ s a surprising , playful pairing .”
PENNER-ASH VIOGNIER AND TEA ROSE GOAT CHEESE “ An example of a master pairing from two female powerhouses in our industry . From winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash in Oregon , this viognier is smooth and elegant with notes of tree fruit , citrus and minerality , but explodes with a beautiful bouquet of florals .
“ WE WORK WITH CONTRAST AND COMPLIMENT IN THIS PAIRING . THAT ’ S HOW I LIKE TO BREAK THINGS DOWN : BY EXTRAPOLATING INDIVIDUAL CHARACTERISTICS OF EACH COMPONENT AND PAIRING THEM UP .”
– Diana Brier , owner and cheese director at Valley Cheese & Wine , Las Vegas
We pair it with Tea Rose from cheesemaker Judy Schad of Capriole Goat Cheese in Indiana . Named after one of the creamery ’ s best goats who still graces the logo to this day , Tea Rose is a fresh , handladeled chevre that gets a dusting of fennel pollen and is then covered with herbs and flower petals .
The two together are foolproof . Hand-ladeling produces a gorgeous pillowy texture in the chevre . Add in that smooth viognier and the textures combine to flood the palate with wave after wave of complimentary , bright summer flavors . And while all pairings are personal preference , If you hate this pairing , then you just might just be wrong !”
4 Beverage Dynamics • September / October 2022 www . beveragedynamics . com