Beverage Dynamics September-October 2021 | Page 22

PHOTO CREDIT : © ROBERT CLARK PHOTOGRAPHY
BY THOMAS HENRY STRENK
McGillin ’ s Olde Ale House in Philadelphia offers 29 craft beers on tap , and specializes in regional microbreweries .
“ During Covid , everyone was trapped inside their dwellings and wanted to drink ,” says Daniels . “ Sales skyrocketed . Now things are starting to settle out a bit .”
Pandemic restrictions boosted beer sales off-trade at the expense of on-premise ; now , that seesaw is shifting back as bars and restaurants reopen and consumers cautiously reemerge . And they are interested in trying new things .
“ Beer still occupies about the same percentage of sales as before the pandemic ,” says Ian Hanson , beer manager for the Denver-based retailer Applejack Wine & Spirits . “ A more noticeable change has come in the categories sold .”

Lager Rhythms

With beer styles rising and falling in popularity , here ’ s a look at what ’ s next

McGillin ’ s Olde Ale House has survived through not one , but two pandemics , and continues to thrive . Founded in 1860 , McGillin ’ s is the oldest continuously operating tavern in Philadelphia and one of the oldest in the country .

The Ale House offers 29 craft beers on tap and specializes in regional microbreweries . “ Although we have definitely seen a shift to spirits , we continue to sell a good deal of draft beer ,” says Christopher Mullins , Jr ., who runs McGillin ’ s with his parents .
Likewise the beer category is a survivor , rising to new challenges and reinventing itself with new avenues of innovation , such as expanding beer styles , malt beverages ( aka hard seltzers ) and low- / no-alcohol products . This burst of new product proliferation helps keep beer top of mind .
CHALLENGING TIMES It hasn ’ t been easy . Over the past few years , sales have been flat to down , as beer gradually ceded market share to spirits and wine . Despite this , interest in beer remains strong , but there is more competition for consumer beverage dollars .
Beer industry mergers and acquisitions were rife , while new breweries opened at a rapid pace , crowding the market . Consumers began purchasing directly from breweries and craft sixpacks were showing up on shelves at supermarkets , convenience stores and drugstore chains .
Beverage centers and beer retailers began closing . “ The beer market was trying to figure itself out ,” says Jason Daniels , chief operating officer of Half Time Beverage , a Mamaroneck , NY-based retailer .
Then came Covid . Under pandemic restrictions , bars and restaurants shuttered . Housebound consumers stocked up on essentials and beer consumption rose .
STYLE UP While some operators focus on attracting a cocktail crowd , a great beer selection is still imperative . Not only does it negate the veto-vote of the beer lovers in the crowd , but astute and unusual suds choices rather than the usual suspects are also a definite advantage .
Of course , beer-centric restaurant concepts have an advantage . “ Since we ’ re a brewpub , we sell five times more beer than wine , and liquor sales usually only total half as much as beer sales depending on the week ,” says Tauren Johnston , head brewer for the Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery in Centennial , CO .
Johnston is busy brewing up small batches of styles ranging from Kolsch and blonde ales , pilsners and porters , sours and seasonals , and of , course , IPAs . “ Between everything in bottles , cans and on draft , my location fluctuates between 16 to 20 options ,” says the brewer . The brewpub chain currently operates 19 units .
“ We are seeing demand for all ranges of beer styles , which is great !” says Aaron Peck , beer manager for The Publican restaurant in Chicago . The Publican ’ s extensive beer list specializes in Belgian , Trappist and German selections , but ranges to the U . K . and Iceland as well as local brews . 10 beers are available on tap .
“ Krombacher Pilsner is our number-one selling beer ; we are selling more Krombacher than before Covid … more than ever actually !” says Peck . “ What I ’ ve noticed lately is more calls for imports and some classics . I love seeing a Kolsch , Trappist , or Berliner Weiss go out to a table .”
22 Beverage Dynamics • September / October 2021 www . beveragedynamics . com