Brandy and Cognac
PHOTO CREDIT : © ISTOCK . COM / FOCUSEYE like Cognac or Armagnac ; more styles of brandy can be made from a wider range of varietals and the region of ‘ America ’ is vast and one of the most climatically diverse countries in the world .”
“ American Brandy , compared to Cognac , has more room for innovation and freedom to craft products that fill the niche consumers or bartenders want ,” says Hurst . She cites the Christian Brothers line as an example , producing traditional grape brandy as well as flavored expressions , such as peach , honey and apple .
CONSUMER EDUCATION REQUIRED Most consumers remain unclear about what brandy is and how it is similar to — and differs from — other brown spirits .
Education is needed in this area , believes Laird Dunn . “ Brandy is a flavorful and complex brown spirit . It ’ s not the sweet , artificially flavored product made from neutral grain spirits that some consumers think it is .”
“ Part of the work we have to do is not only explore brandy-making , but also make it more approachable ,” says Tate . “ And help people understand that on a basic level , brandy is as simple as it gets : you grow fruit , ferment it and distill it .”
IN SEARCH OF TERROIR French brandies are all about the appellations , the place and the terroir . Will that sort of concept take hold in the U . S .? Is terroir truly important ? And how will that term translate in America ?
“ Terroir is important with all crops , whether they are eaten , fermented or distilled ,” says Bell . “ They provide the fingerprint of the region .”
“ I have mixed feelings about the word ‘ terroir ,’” says Tate . He notes that the French term encompasses a wider meaning than its literal translation . As a brandy producer , his focus is grapes indigenous to Texas , partnering with local farmers and working in the soil of his own small vineyard .
“ Our Virginia brandy has a minerality present in the grapewines we source from Virginia vineyards ,” says Harris at Catoctin Creek . “ Experienced vintners in Virginia can definitely pick out the ‘ Virginia ’ element in our brandy when they taste it .”
“ American Brandy has all the makings of the next big category , from the cocktail culture , to the rich heritage , to the offering of quality products .”
– ELIZABETH HURST
What ’ s in the glass is more important than any concept of terroir , believes Heron .
“ Just as it does with vineyards , terroir plays a part with fruit orchards , and the brandies produced from them ,” says Laird Dunn . “ It ’ s a subtle difference , and I don ’ t think there will be designated regions like the French regions for Cognac , Armagnac and Calvados .”
“ Terroir is an important factor of any brand ’ s story , says Heaven Hill brand manager Hurst . “ Whether that is sourcing grapes from California , or where and how the product is distilled . These elements all play an important part in the taste profile , and often legitimacy , of a brand .”
NEXT STEPS Will American brandy supplant whiskey and tequila to become the next “ it ” spirits trend ?
“ Not only do I think it is poised to be the next ‘ it ’ category , but I also think it is becoming so ,” says Laird Dunn . “ But we still have a lot of work to do .” Others agree . “ It ’ s about time the U . S . became world-renowned for a spirit other than Bourbon ,” comments Bell at Bertoux .
“ The outlook for American brandies is promising ,” says Roberts . “ We believe the category will continue to grow .”
Although it would be great if brandy became the next “ it ” spirit , Racht says that “ instead of trying to push it into the market , at Clear Creek we just want to continue focusing on great spirits in the hopes that the consumer recognizes the quality above any trend .”
And besides , Americans already drink large amounts of brandy . “ Where it moves next is to a state where it stands at parity with Bourbon and Cognac as a perceived peer in terms of quality and compelling personality ,” notes Heron .
“ American Brandy has all the makings of the next big category , from the cocktail culture , to the rich heritage , to the offering of quality products ,” says Hurst . “ If consumers latch onto these ideals , then the category could see an American brandy renaissance .”
At Laird & Company , Laird Dunn ’ s son Gerard is joining the team as the 10th generation for the family-owned and -operated business . “ We are looking ahead to the future ,” she says , “ it will be an exciting time for American and apple brandy .”
Says Racht at Clear Creek , “ 2019 is shaping up to be one hell of a year .”
At Cooper & Kings , Heron has only one word about the coming year : “ Boom !” BD
THOMAS HENRY STRENK is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer with over 20 years experience covering the beverage and restaurant industries . In his small apartment-turned-alchemist-den , he homebrews beer kombucha , and concocts his own bitters and infusions .
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