Beverage Dynamics November 2023 | Page 5

ON THE WEB

by KYLE SWARTZ

Surprising an alcohol journalist is not easy . Not when you travel extensively , sample enough products to fill several warehouses , and attend countless tastings in Manhattan . But Bruichladdich pulled off a pleasant surprise this month by chauffeuring writers to an undisclosed location for the 2023 release of their mystery-cloaked Black Art single malt .

Normally the elegant NYC location is part of the PR pitch . Instead , what caught the eyes of alcohol writers was the lack of known location — only the promise that we would receive rides , there and back . My wife and mother-in-law were both incredibly concerned with this cryptic arrangement ; both made me promise to text as soon as I knew where I was dining .

Turns out the trip was only 15 minutes from Grand Central . After exiting my train and the stately old building , I boarded a Chevrolet Suburban for the short ride to 53 Restaurant , a relatively new midtown contemporary Asian spot that adjoins the MoMA .

Art was an easy parallel between the exquisite food and maritime single malt . Distilled on Islay , Bruichladdich is the rare Scotch from the region produced unpeated . Rather than smokiness , their whiskies are known for a signature buttery roundness , the backbone beneath bright citrus , dried fruit and salty seaside flavors .

These proved perfect companions for the Asian appetizers . Citrus and maritime elements in the brand ’ s flagship , The Classic Laddie single malt , matched the richness of Xiaolongbao dumplings and Royal Shumai lobster .

Pairing Bruichladdich with Manhattan delights is quite the comeback for a distillery that spent decades inoperable . Founded in 1881 , Bruichladdich was among many Scotch producers that shut down in the early 1990s , as the industry bottomed out . That was then ; now , brown spirits are amidst a new boom time . Bruichladdich reopened in 2001 , led by The Classic Laddie in its unusual aqua-blue cannister .

Beyond the eye-catching color , Bruichladdich packaging also includes as much text as you ’ ll see on any label . And the bottle itself has a batch code on the back that leads to even more information about each particular product online . “ We believe everyone should have the right to know what ’ s in their whisky ,” said Jason Cousins , Bruichladdich brand ambassador , during the tasting .

This commitment to transparency is purposefully — and playfully — at odds with the mysteries behind the brand ’ s annual Black Art release . Other than age and ABV , we receive no other info . Typically , these older-age expressions blend a number of cask finishes , including stocks from pre-shutdown .

The 2023 release , Black Art Edition 11.1 , is 24 years old and 44 % ABV . On the nose , dried dark fruit and citrus lead into notes of peaches , vanilla and red wine casks . These flavors continue onto the palate , which opens with a salty maritime ping before bursting into big fruits above a lovely barley backbone . Altogether , another phenomenal entry in this popular series , perfectly balanced and easy drinking .

And a robust enough profile to stand up against heavier Asian fare that followed : Beef tenderloin with black peppercorn , Kung Pao quail egg and Black Cod clay pot with crispy rice . The latter was the standout , a best seller at 53 Restaurant .

Midtown Manhattan , a global tourism mecca , is not what New Yorkers think of for nuanced dining . 53 Restaurant , however , sheds the district ’ s Disneyworld vibe for an authentic , artsy , modern Asian experience . A visit is well worth the effort of finagling reservations or snaring a spot at the impressively stocked bar .

Black Art bottles , limited in release and sought after by enthusiasts , are also difficult to come by . Edition 11.1 is likewise worth the effort : a top-shelf expression that belongs in the collection of any Scotch aficionado .

Savory conversation among fellow alcohol journalists and press reps led me to stay too long at 53 Restaurant . With 15 minutes until my Metro-North left for Connecticut , I faced the choice : risk the ride back through New York traffic , or take fate into my own hands — or feet . I decided to run . Nine total blocks through tourist-strewn midtown , past St . Patrick ' s Cathedral and Rockefeller Center , down into the liminal depths of Grand Central 47th Street , where I caught my train by seconds . No mystery in any of that . •

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