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WHEN COVID-19 first swept across America , customers bought in panic . They reached for name brands in bulk . Large-format bottles of Tito ’ s and Kettel One flew off of shelves . Boxed wine was a hit . Same with 30-packs of macro lagers like Budweiser , which for years had been losers in the expanding craft movement .

The coronavirus has flipped the script . Products and styles that had been popular a decade ago became desirable once again . Fearing for their health — and unsure whether liquor stores would remain open — consumers who had once browsed craft products instead grabbed better-known brands , preferring the value and consistency . Has this changed in June ? “ Name-brand items continue to be popular ,” says Edward Mulvihill , owner of Peco ’ s

Liquor Store in Wilmington , DE .

With the flagship Total Wine located nearby , Peco ’ s in recent years had repositioned to be more niche with craft products . “ Now , we ’ re reversing course ,” Mulvihill says . This includes the store ’ s largest order of 30-packs in a long time , along with cases and cases of Svedka . Other retailers have witnessed the same trend . “ There ’ s a resurgence of known brands ,” says Jonathan Blue , owner of the Liquor Barn chain of Kentucky . “ I see this as a flight to quality and familiarity .” Blue believes that the lockdowns taught consumers “ they can enjoy things at home as much as they could out of their homes at bars and restaurants , even if they have nobody to entertain .” That ’ s why vodka has become a best seller . People are mixing up cocktails , even just simple drinks , in the comfort of their own home . Tequila has also benefitted . “ Tequila is our biggest category increase , followed by prepared cocktails and vodka ,” says

Kevin Neitzel , owner of Fridge Wholesale Liquor in Manhattan , KS . “ Sales on 1.75-L are the most popular . Domestic beer brands are really thriving .”

For Half Time , a New York-based chain specializing in craft beer , people spend less time perusing the stores ’ famous mix-six section . Instead , consumers have “ reverted to tried-and-true craft producers like Jack ’ s Abby and Sierra Nevada ,” says COO Jason Daniels .

By this same trend , Half Time has actually seen a rise in sales of craft beer imports . “ The ‘ old-timers ’, so to speak , are also going back to things a little more tried and true ,” says Daniels . “ For them , that means Belgian and German brands .”

As craft beer grapples with the threat of COVID-19 , there ’ s another ( smaller ) struggle playing out : the search for new flavors .

The innovation spike that accompanied the industry ’ s recent expansion has left many brewers and consumers wondering what ’ s next . Discovering different flavors and styles has become increasingly harder .

In this quest for what ’ s new , some brewers are experimenting with terpenes .

What are these ? Terpenes are aromatic oils found in natural botanical sources , including hops and cannabis . ( After all , both plants are genetically related .) Obviously terpenes do not get you “ high .” However , some research suggests that they may have

SingleCut Shoegazer is a 3XDH IPA that contains terpenes .

therapeutic benefits . Moreover , brewing with terpenes — typically through dry hopping — can enhance flavors and aromas in craft beer . In particular , terpenes can emphasize dank and fruit flavors in a way that ’ s bright , balanced , fresh and rounded .

SingleCut Shoegazer is a 3XDH IPA that includes a dry hop with Pineapple Express terpenes . The terpenes provide the beer with a “ beautifully balanced and intensely saturated dankness beneath a super-vibrant , fresh essence of lemon and lime , and that signature pineapple flavor ,” says General Manager Dan Bronson .

That is the roll of terpenes in beer . They enhance natural craft beer aromas and flavors in a way that presents differently than drinkers are accustomed to . Terpenes round out and brighten what ’ s already there .

www . beveragedynamics . com July / August 2020 • Beverage Dynamics 5