curves, grades that rise and fall, straight and flat sections that provide relief, vistas that go on for miles or are hemmed in by trees and rock walls – it’ s all here.
Since leaving the Morenci Mine, we had seen no development along the Coronado Trail. A few campgrounds and some trailhead signs, but that was it. Cell reception is blessedly nonexistent. Our next stop was Hannagan Meadow, which was covered in a blanket of snow. The Hannagan Meadow Lodge, located 9,000 feet above sea level in the middle of the Blue Range Primitive Area, is the only bit of civilization for miles. Built in 1926, it offers accommodation in the lodge or cabins, and the restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We were just passing through, but
Arizona- based Contributing Editor Tim Kessel gives the lodge an enthusiastic endorsement.
The next 23 miles to Alpine were a pleasant, gradual descent along graceful curves. From Alpine, you can complete a 211- mile Coronado Trail loop by riding east on U. S. Route 180 into New Mexico and then slithering like a rattlesnake south to SR- 78 for the return to Arizona.
At the Tackle Shop, we watered our horses and scuffed our boots on the store’ s worn wooden floor in search of provisions. If you’ re an angler, this is your place. I bought a sheet of Arizona Jack’ s Super Giga beef jerky, which had“ AZJ” branded on it and tasted like peppered shoe leather.
The final 27 miles of the Coronado Trail from Alpine to Eagar is a mellow cruise through the national forest with fewer curves and less dramatic scenery, concluding our ride on the scenic byway. This is a road I can’ t imagine ever growing tired of, especially since it’ s remote enough that it probably never sees much traffic. And for the adventure- minded, there are unpaved forest roads off U. S. 191 that will take you to primitive campsites along the Blue and Black rivers.
We ended our long riding day more than 200 miles west of Eagar in Clarkdale, at the home of Tim Kessel and his delightful wife, Cheryl, enjoying a dram of sippin’ whiskey. Over dinner at a local restaurant, we shared tales of our travels, reliving the highlights all over again. Ride to live, live to ride.
This wonderful section of State Route 78 is off U. S. 191 just south of Clifton.
RESOURCES:
• Arizona Tourism: VisitArizona. com
• Coronado Trail Scenic Byway: Highways. DOT. gov
• Apache- Sitgreaves National Forests: FS. USDA. gov
• Clifton, AZ: VisitCliftonAZ. com
• Hannagan Meadow Lodge: HannaganMeadow. com
• Springerville-Eagar, AZ: SpringervilleEagarChamber. com
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